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Nob Job

5.10d X, Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.4 from 5 votes
FA: Mugs Stump, Jack Roberts: 1977
Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwo… > Thumb Area
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Approach

From the end of S-Crack on "Lunch Ledge" traverse 80' right/east to an overhang with a crack. This is the start of the route.

Description

A very serious route. The consequences of falling on lead almost anywhere along this route will be significant up here. The route is for expert climbers with a cool head when things get dicey. Trust me... they will get dicey. The route is rarely done, so it will likely be flakey. If you thought the first pitch was mind-blowing, the second pitch will be just plain sick. Hang low on the midway belay so you can dodge your falling leader.

Protection

I recommend bringing 4 cams (0.5"-1.5"), 8 runners (24") & 16 carabiners. There are three bolts on the 2nd hanging belay now. Count your blessings.

Descent

Rappel 150' 2 times to "Lunch Ledge".
Rappel 90' to a pair of anchors in no man's land.
Rappel 130' to S-Matrix.
Rappel 80' to ground & scramble or 200' to the Standard Thumb chimney start.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ryan Brough
Orem, UT
[Hide Comment] I love the description. Sounds like there might be a story behind it. Nov 14, 2007
[Hide Comment] Where does this start in relation to the S-Crack? How do you get off? Nov 14, 2007
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
[Hide Comment] The 2nd pitch looks terrifying (I looked at it on rappel).
The runouts make S-direct look grid-bolted: I think I counted 2 bolts and 1 knob to tie-off for a pitch that's slightly longer than P2 of S-direct, less featured and quite a bit steeper. Seems like a VERY serious endeavor... Oct 6, 2009
[Hide Comment] Come on you guys. This route is pretty tame by today's standards..........

I'm just glad it has not been bolted...............there is a story............ May 31, 2010
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
[Hide Comment] Maybe in terms of rating... but today's standards of grid bolting steep stuff don't exactly translate well to hard slabs and big falls. I wouldn't call any of these old school thin lines tame and based on the amount of traffic they see I'd say I'm justified. You guys were just way strong and not afraid to get after it!
There is a story? Please, do tell... May 31, 2010
[Hide Comment] Great route! I remember following Lance up the second pitch and him telling me not to fall. When I arrived at the hanging belay, it turned out to be a single, rusty quarter incher. From the description, it sounds like that belay is now less exciting.
A good linkup is to climb Coyne Crack - S Crack - Nob Job. Jun 1, 2010
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c/d R
[Hide Comment] Definately a route worth doing if you are working on your slab technique. Little Cottonwood is a great place to develop these skills for application in other locations. I guess we did a lot more slab climbing in the past since I do not think this was anywhere near X rated. Just be creative (lassoo nobs from below to protect the first big run out.) Jun 28, 2010
[Hide Comment] (Definately a route worth doing if you are working on your slab technique. Little Cottonwood is a great place to develop these skills for application in other locations. I guess we did a lot more slab climbing in the past since I do not think this was anywhere near X rated. Just be creative (lassoo nobs from below to protect the first big run out.)

I did this many years ago and found it to be barely R rated if you as stated above lasso giant chicken head above first flake which allows for toprope to chickenhead and getting to first bolt is 5.8ish? reasonable at this point. If you have 3 folks you can also lead while being top roped and place a piece in the crack during first run out which helps confidence as well. There are many knobs on route between bolts so sling them as protection. My guess the x rating was given without knowledge about slinging ( knobs) chickenheads?This is one of my favorite slab routes in LCC because it was not just pure slab and there were somewhat distinct moves throughout. This is assuming you are comfortable on 5.10 slab and choose a cool cloudy day.
Mar 26, 2015