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Routes in Big Cliffs

Burrsitus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Coordinate Covalent Bonding S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Frodo Lives S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rastafaria T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
State of the Artless (The Open Book) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: LAC
Page Views: 1,411 total, 11/month
Shared By: Sean Cobourn on Nov 13, 2007
Admins: Courtney Curtner

You & This Route


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Description

Follow crack to roof. Move right and follow crack through roof to ledge.
Scramble to top.

Location

On east wall of the pit at right side of cliff.

Protection

trad

Photos

- No Photos -
The very top hold on the route broke off sometime around 1990 and now the new hold that was created makes the route somewhat easier. Nov 25, 2009
jhump
  5.6 PG13
jhump  
  5.6 PG13
I cant count how many times I've done this route- leading, top roping, soloing, rope soling, aiding, etc. It is really a great little climb with fun moves. Some of my earliest climbing memories involve watching my Dad smear desparately over the lip to gain the ledge and a solid handshake to follow. Jun 21, 2009
Boyce
Alliance, OH
 
Boyce   Alliance, OH
 
Gear: can be done with three pieces. 1- sling around the triangle where two cracks meet half way up main wall. 2- #3 camalot at horizontal crack just to the left of the roof crack. 3- #1 camalot in the crack just above the roof.

Variation: Bursitis Direct [5.8] climb directly under and then up and through the roof. Difficult to protect the bottom half from decking on the main ledge 10 feet off of the ground, but it can still be lead. Nov 14, 2007