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The Cutting Edge [Suggest Change]
5.13+ YDS 8b French 30 Ewbanks X- UIAA 31 ZA E7 7a British
Avg: 2.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Headstone Rock
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Cryptic S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cutting Edge, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Headbanger's Ball T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Headmaster TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Headstone Crack Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Headstone Crack Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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SW Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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South Face Center TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft |
| FA: | Scott Cosgrove, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 3,598 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Isaac T. on Nov 13, 2007 |
| Admins: | C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description [Suggest Change]
Don't want to give it away in case you are going for the "pure" onsight, but the route is very thin hands, delicate feet, with a few bulges to overcome. It is probably the most intriguing line on the rock, and can be quite fun to watch someone work the moves.
Protection [Suggest Change]
4 bolts to chains (if you are working the problem you can yard off of the solitary rusty bolt to clip the first bolt on the climb. Probably a good idea because if you fall here it is a long way down)
Joshua Tree
Joshua Tree
The line caught my eye... as it would anyone... and I assumed it was impossible. But, Bob Gaines and a few others, claimed there were holds and that, I should give it a try. I was very surprised after a short cleaning that the route was very climbable.
My first day I was able to do all the moves and started thinking about placing the bolts. On such a historic rock and a very high profile line, I was determined to place them in just the right spots. Unfortunately, the climb has very few good stances to stop and rest, and the clips although hard, are in the best possible place for clipping and safety. I used a quick draw with a long runner on the forth bolt so I could do a dangerous clip in two stages. I believe you can see the set up in the Cover photo.
The crux is a big move, using a key hold around the corner to the left and palming the true arete with your right hand. Bringing up the feet and then a dyno for a small three finger incut. It's a hard and a low percentage move, but the rest of the climbing is mid 12b/c and pretty easy to nail everytime, if you have the ability to send the crux. On my eighth day I red pointed it, on a cool shady morning, and redpointed it a few days later in the direct sun. While taking the photo that ended up on the cover of Climbing.
It is a beautiful climb and as yet unrepeated as far as I know, I've heard of many people trying it, and I heard Allan Moore is very close, at the moment. I rated it 13b, as a complete sand bag, it's more like 13c/d or even 14a, but it is much easier than the G-String.
Again, I don't think it's super reachy as my friend "KS" who is 5' 7" did all the moves and Steve S, was actually able to find a trick sequence on the crux and underclinging the three finger incut, and could do the crux statics. It is however a beautiful line in a great location. I'm very proud of this one, as I always tried to pick lines for their beauty and not just hard climbing.
EDIT, there are only four bolts, (Blitzo's photo shows five) the top is run out, but very easy 10d or 11a on positive holds, and I felt it kept the bolt count down. If there is a fifth bolt now, it was not original, but probably not a bad idea, LOL... Sep 3, 2013