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Hammerhead
5.10a,
Trad, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),
Avg: 2.6 from 7
votes
FA: Pat Gilbreath, Anita Gilbreath, John Sage
Arizona
> Central Arizona
> Queen Creek Canyon
> Lower Devil's C…
> Glitter Box Area
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area
Details
Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at:
queencreekclimbing.com/.
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website –
theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page –
facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
Description
Climb a broken crack to the first bolt using cams or stoppers for protection. Follow 5 bolts up the face to a chimney up to the tree. Use cams and stoppers to set up a top rope anchor to the left of the tree and rappel off the tree when done.
Stay over the bolts to keep it a 5.10a - the 5.10a part is only one or two moves near a slight bulge about midway through the climb. If you move left to the corner at the crux, the climb drops to a 5.8 or 5.9.
Location
Hammerhead is located about 30 feet to the right of Three Amigos on the south face in the Glitter Box area of Lower Devils Canyon. From the start of Three Amigos, you can see the top of Hammerhead which ends at a tree growing out of a chimney above and to the right of the start of Three Amigos. To get to the start, go down to the bottom of the Glitter Box by rappelling down using the two rap chains east of Three Amigos or hike down and around to the bottom of the Glitter Box.
Protection
5 bolts plus cams and stoppers for protection to the first bolt. Medium cams and/or stoppers are needed to set up an anchor at the top of the route. Webbing or slings are needed to rappel off the tree.
[Hide Photo] Matt king top roping hammerhead. Taken by An Pham.
[Hide Photo] Matt Evans belaying An Pham on top rope. Taken by Matt King with a fish eye lens.
Tucson/DMR
Mesa, az
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
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