Clearlight
5.11 PG13,
Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3.3 from 19
votes
FA: Jay Smith
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> River Rd
> Big Bend Butte
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
An unsung classic. Pitch 1- 5.10 climbing with a little bit of everything thrown in. Loose and silty in places but really engaging, worthy climbing that ends at Metolius rap hangers at a nice stance. (120 ft) Pitch 2- a wild traverse left(about 40 ft)from the belay past a couple of excellent bolts, with a few natural gear placements as well... when you reach the off-fingers crack(the route's crux), climb on up. This pitch also ends at some nice steel anchors- 5.11 PG-13(70-ish feet). Pitch 3- The Money... around 100 feet of splitter hands on a beautiful steep, varnished Wingate medium. A few bulges thrown in for good measure. At 3/4 height, at a sloping stance, we traversed right into the finger crack that becomes off-width and ends up in the alcove at the obvious anchors. Amazing pitch 5.10+. Pitch 4 a blue-collar squeeze chimney- make those old boys proud. There's a marginal cam placement deep inside about 15 feet up and a pin in a horizontal that can be backed up with a cam as well. Squeeze for 35 feet or so and then exit, eventually ending up on a ledge. Forth class romp up to tag the summit. This route was one of my most enjoyable outings to date.
Location
Park at the large boulder just before the Big Bend campground on the left side of the road as you are coming from Moab. Cross the road and pick-up the approach trail winding up the talus to the base of the towers (approx 25 min). The route is located on Big Bend Butte on the broad west facing wall to the left (north) of the Dolomite spire as seen looking up from the big-bend area parking lot. There are two prominent cracks splitting this upper wall. The left most and thinner crack is Clearlight. The wide-offwidth crack more to the right may be Dolomight, but I am unsure. Start in the shaley, silty, broken left facing corner to the left of Infrared, this pitch begins with a 15 foot blocky,loose scramble and then starts off the climbing in a finger crack flake of sorts that leads to the corner system. YOU WILL NEED 2 6O METER ROPES TO RAP! Basically rap the route- you have options for which anchors you use, but it should be obvious.
Protection
Bring triples of blue #2 metolius size to #3 camalots, and probably 2 old-style #4 camalots and an optional old #5. Also, bring 15 alpine-style draws or over-the-shoulder slings. As of the 11th of November 2007, the anchor webbing on the 3rd pitch bolts was poor (faded, girth hitched nylon/spectra directly in the standard bolt hangers), and the final 4th pitch anchor which consists of a rotten tangle of desert variety 'round a large leaning flake was borderline deadly. Please be a hero- bring ample webbing (20 feet should be plenty)and remove and replace the junk.
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Ouray, CO
This was a great route, steep, sustained, with fun climbing. I can't say which was better, Clearlight or Infared. Apr 20, 2009
Durango, CO
-We went without the old #5 and didn't wish we had it.
-I brought a green, yellow, red alien on the chimney pitch and placed all 3. Nov 8, 2013
Carbondale, CO