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Routes in Matanuska Glacier

Everywhere is a route WI4-5
Icing Peak - North Ridge WI2-3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Ice
FA: N/A
Page Views: 497 total, 4/month
Shared By: R Squared on Nov 12, 2007
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Private Property Details

Description

Since it's a glacier the routes can range from very easy to extremely hard. It just depends on how crazy you decide to be that day. You can set up some nice top rope setups on some crazy overhanging stuff and try your skills out.

Location

The whole glacier!

Protection

Ice screws. Bring cord or something to make your anchors with.
DCrane
Taylorsville, Utah
 
DCrane   Taylorsville, Utah
 
I recently wrote about my experience coming to the Matanuska for the first time and why I stayed. This is a beautiful place!

dcranephoto.blogspot.com/20… Aug 15, 2016
DCrane
Taylorsville, Utah
 
DCrane   Taylorsville, Utah
 
As of June 2016 there are 3 main top-rope walls easily accessible. Compressor wall is almost directly East of the giant dirt mound visible from the parking area. Elephant wall is mostly South of the mound but is melting rapidly and no longer a major destination. By far the most popular as of late June is Lakeside (aka Rescue Wall) which has short easy walls, a couple near-vert routes and a large section of overhanging ice of varying difficulty. Lakeside is often occupied by one or more parties.
Kraken wall (on the right as you approach the ice-fall, large face visible from the parking area) has been top-roped by one guiding company as well, is also frequently used as a lower station.
Several Crevasses exist in the ice-fall as lowers as well. Jun 25, 2016