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Routes in The Bihedral (Upper Tier)

A Fly in the Ointment T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
AHR S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Acid Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Acid Rock T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bihedral Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blood Diamond S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Case of the Fags T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crack Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dan's Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydreaming T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Diamonds and Rust S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dihedral Variation T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Edge of Reality S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Fat Tuesday T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flesh Eating Flies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Group Therapy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hesitantly Decisive T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Heterohedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
High Hard One S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hold The Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It's Time For Change T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just Putin Around T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Left-Handed Tool T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Moves T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Oh Boy T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pariah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Puff Daddy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhodian Shores S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Sands of Iwo Jima S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun Spot T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thumb Tack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tool King T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trick or Treat T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Where's Ray? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Josh Lyons, Zach Holtzman
Page Views: 1,566 total, 13/month
Shared By: J.Lyons on Nov 11, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start in the obvious dihedral for 15 feet to a ledge, then go up easy an unprotected wide crack for 5 feet. Head left on horizontal crack to find a thin crack up the left side of the face for 25-30 feet.

The wide section has some loose rock, but it is easily avoided by climbing on big holds outside of the crack. The thin crack (crux) through the face is sequency, sustained, and steep.

Location

The left of two cracks which are around the corner, to the right of Edge of Reality, on the East face of the pillar. In between Edge of Reality and Heterohedral.

Protection

The bottom corner is two inches. The wide section has a spot at the bottom for a #3.5 Camalot in good rock. The wide crack is unprotected and created by a large, dettached block, be careful! The first good gear after this is small TCUs to 1 inch in the horizontal crack. The main crack takes small units and brass. It is very well-protected. Built gear anchor on top and descended on Tool King chains.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
In the old days, it meant a pack of cigarettes. Jun 26, 2012
slim    
I had always thought it was an old British term that meant "to be tired". Jun 25, 2012
Phil Persson
Denver, Colorado
Phil Persson   Denver, Colorado
Thanks, but that is exactly what I mean, dude.... I'm all for being 'politically uncorrect', but I think saying 'case of the fags', as in disease or something, goes a little beyond that into clearly being offensive. Maybe I'm overreacting a bit, but I've read plenty of guidebooks and out there climb names I'm just tired of people dismissing stuff like this as being 'no big deal.' If something makes you feel like shit, well then it is kinda a big deal. And yah, I'm not in Boulder anymore, I'm actually living in Northern Sweden now, a stone's throw from Yosemite-quality granite on the sea and bigwalls galore in Northern Norway, with hardly anyone there. So, life's not so bad. Though my comment wasn't so much directed at 'Boulder' as much as a certain attitude I suppose exists everywhere I just felt I was seeing a little much of. Anyways no hard feelings and thanks for checking out my blog! Jun 25, 2012
zHoltzman
Boulder, CO
zHoltzman   Boulder, CO
George, I thought it was a worthy crack to be documented. Perhaps "Acid Crack" should be added to the list.

Phil, did you leave Boulder yet? Your blog is cool. I really enjoyed reading about all the cool things you do. I can see why one can take a look at this route name and be offended; however, I've never known climbing to be politically correct. Words aren't always as they seem. Page through a couple more guidebooks. Also, for someone so offended, you are really quick to throw the "n word" out there. Smoke more fags and get strong. Have fun. Boulder won't miss you. Jun 9, 2012
Phil Persson
Denver, Colorado
Phil Persson   Denver, Colorado
"Case of the Fags"? Really? Man, I am so ready to get the F out of Boulder... would you have named this 'Case of the niggers?' .
but hey, looks like a decent climb! [If I was strong enough to climb 11d on gear, hah.] May 3, 2012
On May 16, 1975, I led Patti Smith (not THAT rock star) up the right-hand crack. I thought it was about 5.9. If I were to name it, I would have called it "Acid Crack," in keeping with the theme of the route we did later that day (which we thought was Acid Rock, but instead was on the right side of this face and to the LEFT of the Bihedral route). Until now, I've never seen mention of this crack in any guidebook or database. May 2, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12-
I'd leave it bolt-less. The hard climbing is the thin stuff anyway and has 3-4 good placements between a rough fall and the crux. Nice work doing that, I thought it was quite hard. Oct 29, 2010
J.Lyons
 
J.Lyons  
 
Tony B! That's great you climbed that thing. I think you are the only other person that has climbed it. I know it's a little sharp, but you might have been having a case of the fags that day. So, I think you might want to re-think that second star. Just kidding. I was thinking of putting an anchor in and maybe a bolt in that wide section which if I remember correctly was easy climbing but unprotectable. I really didn't think anyone else would climb it, so I left it alone. Oh and thanks for upgrading my route, that made my night. Oct 26, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12-
The grade on this one is pretty safe from any downgrading. As well, if you expect to have anythign resembling fun on this, tape up your fingers because this one is a sharp "eater" of a crack with rough uneven edges.
Had I had tape at the beginning instead of blood knuckles at the end, I might have given this an additional star. Jun 16, 2010
J.Lyons
 
J.Lyons  
 
We were not sure whether these two cracks have been done. We talked to Dan Hare and he acknowledged climbing the right crack, but didn't know of anyone getting on the left crack. After attempting it and cleaning off loose rock in and around the crack, along with the difficult sequency moves, it had the signs of an unclimbed route. The crack on the right contains some sweet, wide groveling to hands. Nov 11, 2007