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Routes in Cave Buttress

Cro-Magnons From Space T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Main Vein, The T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pleasure Pillar, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rowan's Arete S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unaweeper, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Unknown 1 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown 2 S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 3/ Unknown 3 Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Matt Seymour and Jesse Zacher
Page Views: 52 total, 0/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Nov 10, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start almost in the far left corner of Cave Buttress to where it becomes a dike. Begin up the white band of rock clipping a few bolts. Gain a ledge and protect with gear. Continue up the face with a few more bolts gaining a crack system that leads to a roof. Place gear in the crack and traverse the roof left and clip a bolt on the roof's lip. Surmount the roof and put in some small gear and tip toe to the anchors.

Location

Start almost in the far left corner of Cave Buttress to where it becomes a dike. Look for bolts in the obvious pale band of granite. Rap from anchors.

Protection

5-7 QDs and small gear (green C3 to 0.4 Camalot).

Photos

Great technical route with a move that appears committing past the second bolt. Just balance up and work the tiny crimps until you are at the jugs above. Anywhere you think the bolts are too far apart there is a placement to make you feel warm and fuzzy. (The exception is the past the second bolt.)
Perfect stone and a great setting. Aug 17, 2011