Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Abbey

5.12a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 30 votes
FA: unknown
New Mexico > New Mexico, oth… > Tunnel > Shady Side > Shady Side Left

Description

Compared to Scott it has a harder crux move.

Start with a right sidepull and tricky feet to get the not-so-great hold below the first bolt or move slightly right to use an undercling start. Either way you'll want to have your right hand out of the way of the rope as you throw for the next hold getting to the second bolt. From here take your rests as you get them since the sequence of sloper-highstep-lockoff-reach moves can pump you out at the top. Clip with the anchors at your chest for the best holds.

Location

see area overview.

Protection

bolts to anchors.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aimee McRae
Bend
 
[Hide Comment] Low crux. More sustained than Scott, but easier moves all together. Sep 20, 2010
Thomas Pham
Las Cruces, NM
 
[Hide Comment] I think the moves were harder then Scott, but overall route seems easier due to the low crux. Oct 1, 2018