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Routes in North Peak, East Face

Bandito T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bear's Delight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Stinger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Great Impostor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gunsite To North Peak T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Helter Skelter T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Keds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lichen or Leave It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichening Bolt T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Nubbin Drubbin S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Psychoprophylaxis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Really Flaky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Roux T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Rox Salt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Streptococcus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unrelenting Verticality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Herb Laeger, Eve Uiga
Page Views: 814 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 8, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description

Start in a shallow left facing corner and climb up to the small overhang. Step left to pass the overhang and find another left facing corner. Follow this corner to a pine tree. This route has pretty good protection, however the R rating is attached because the initial corner is an expanding flake. If you are a solid 5.8 leader at Seneca, do not let the R rating scare you away. Great moves!

Location

Start just Left of Unrelenting Verticality or slightly uphill from Lichen or Leave It.

Protection

standard Seneca Rack

Photos

There are shuts in good condition that are shared with Rox Salt above this climb. The face between Rox Salt and Finger Stinger is fun and interesting on toprope. May 9, 2016
the whole flake up to the roof is expando and has a history of pins and gear ripping out.

you can get gear in the flake for sure; and i surely remember a nice green or purple camolot before the roof that seemed bomber. I used to love scampering up this one. but don't fall on the lower flake section if you can help it! Sep 16, 2013
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8 R
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8 R
The pine tree at the top is gone. Climb the corner to the roof, get gear, move out left then up and hit the rappel tree on Roux. Fantastic moves, but the gear is sparse after the initial corner (where you can get good gear). After the roof comes the real runout. That would be a big fall and swing.

Not for the 5.8 Seneca leader. Tony's guide has it at R/X and for good reason. May 6, 2013