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Routes in Scarface

Banditos ! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Anal Leakage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Guy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Jon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Uhuru T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carlito's Way T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cement Shoes T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cleaner, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cocaine Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbian Hit Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Comic Relief T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Death of a Cowboy T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Desert Shield T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Sunset T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Desert Vuarnet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirt Cheap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fat Farm, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fertile Crescent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
He's up Here T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Internal Scar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lt. Uhuru T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mantel Illness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Montana Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Little Friend T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not That Funny T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Slave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Powder Your Nose T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 666 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route of All Evil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scard Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scarface T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shylock, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sicilian T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Impact T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torque Wrench T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trading Places T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown (just right of Spam) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Bandito Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wavy Gravy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Of The Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Where's Carruthers? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Mama T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown (Wide Hands LF Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,719 total · 22/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Nov 8, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Good crack climbing in a left-facing corner. Gets a little funky where the two cracks join before the anchors.

Location

This is the left-facing corner with twin cracks at the bottom to the left of Scarface and Where's Carruthers?.

Protection

Mostly green Camalots to blue Camalots with heavy on the red and gold Camalots. Also possible to use a couple smaller pieces or a bigger piece where the cracks join up.

Photos

nkane
  5.10+
nkane  
  5.10+
Whatever the name of this climb (and the confusion in this thread and the one for Unnamed 10+ is epic), it's great. Not 5.11, but every inch of 5.10+. The best part is where you can see the perfect #1 crack hiding in the offwidth but you can no longer reach it. Definitely worth doing. A couple large nuts are helpful. Apr 3, 2017
Moritz B.  
 
It was definitely nice to have a #4 cam for the armbar/fist section right before the slot. Dec 1, 2014
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
joel, i've noticed this trend occuring lately. unnamed routes are suddenly sprouting names and plaques. not really sure what to make of it. part of me dislikes it, but part of me finds it handy to have a name to refer to the route by when describing it to somebody.

hope all is well. Dec 6, 2011
I believe the route name "Your Mama," was added at a later date. It seems this route was mistakenly named with a plaque as Desert Sunset in the past, and it is called Unnamed in the Bloom book. Perhaps the name Your Mama was added by somebody who felt the route needed a name at the bottom?

Does anybody know for sure? Somebody who actually climbed at Indian Creek before the book came out? Dec 6, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
The photo is correct for this route. Very fun, varied un-indian-creek climbing. Bring plenty of number 1s and 2s for deep in the crack, and the right starting crack. A few 3s are also useful if starting on the right. May 26, 2011
D-Storm
 
D-Storm  
 
For the sake of keeping the record straight, Jay, I have to assert that the correct route is shown in the photo. I climbed it yesterday and probably spent more time there than you or Mary would for your warm-up. It was good to see you two and the baby this weekend! Oct 25, 2010
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
she is rapping off of "Desert Sunset" Mar 23, 2010
ChugachMan
  5.10
ChugachMan  
  5.10
To PhilT, "Where's Caruthers" is between this and scarface...

There's many options for protection on this route... if taking the left crack at the base, 0.75 camalots wil get you to the first pod. If taking the right side, start with a 0.75 or 1, then some 2's and 3's depending on how much gear you want. For the rest of the route, toss in some big gear here and there, or just use red camalots in the crack that runs up the back of the route (with some runners)... great route, with fun moves and variation. Apr 30, 2009
Greg Barnes  
 
Fun route, not just a walk-the-cams splitter. My friends and I replaced one of the bolts and replaced webbing with chains in Sept. '07. There was a previously chopped anchor about 30' up on the right wall, super lame to have such a low anchor which avoids the interesting climbing. I placed a large stopper or two on this route, there are some funky double-cracks-meeting-can't-place-cams spots. Apr 22, 2009
Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
I think this was labeled 'wheres cruthers' in my book. Didnt see a plaque. Twin crack start with ring locks on the left and hands/fists on the right up to an all day rest pod. Varied climbing past that through a 'roofish type thing' to another no hands rest if you need it. some more fun moves gets you to the top! super awesome! Mar 30, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Fantastic climb that is of a much different character than most IC cracks. Bring a couple extra runners.

You know I did Your Mama! Nov 6, 2008
Matt Weiseth  
 
The Name of this route is I think based on an etched rock at the base: Your Mama. Stellar Climb Oct 30, 2008
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
If I remember correctly, the plaque at the bottom calls this climb "Your Mother 5.10+" Oct 27, 2008
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Varied climbing with different widths and movement. Twin crack start. I took the right wide hands crack, the others tool the left corner. Can stem both cracks up to the chimney box. It's not over there though!

CL Mar 31, 2008

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