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Routes in Scarface

Banditos ! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Anal Leakage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Guy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Jon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Uhuru T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carlito's Way T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cement Shoes T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cleaner, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cocaine Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbian Hit Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Comic Relief T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Death of a Cowboy T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Desert Shield T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Sunset T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Desert Vuarnet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirt Cheap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fat Farm, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fertile Crescent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
He's up Here T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Internal Scar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lt. Uhuru T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mantel Illness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Montana Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Little Friend T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not That Funny T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Slave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Powder Your Nose T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 666 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route of All Evil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scard Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scarface T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shylock, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sicilian T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Impact T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torque Wrench T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trading Places T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown (just right of Spam) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Bandito Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wavy Gravy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Of The Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Where's Carruthers? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Mama T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown (Wide Hands LF Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,643 total, 21/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Nov 8, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Crack in corner starts as hands and quickly turns into big hands. Somewhat difficult moves where the corner opens up and you have to climb over a large wedged boulder in the crack. Felt hard for 5.9, but it's only 40 feet so....

Location

First climb left of Wavy Gravy. Corner that opens at the top with a boulder wedged in the crack.

Protection

Probably 2 each of gold and blue Camalots and maybe a smaller piece or two for the top.
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
The crux protects nicely with a #3 as you make the final move up and out of the chockstone pod. Short, but fun route that makes you think at the end. Dec 3, 2017
Scott E
  5.9
Scott E  
  5.9
Tight hands to good hands to a fun bouldery moves to get out of the pod at the top. Protects very well with 2 #1, 2 #2, and 2 #3. May 1, 2017
Anus Herder
Montrose, CO
  5.10-
Anus Herder   Montrose, CO
  5.10-
If you look up at the anchor there is another anchor 40' up there.. looks harder but could be a rad P2? Anyone know what this is? Nov 23, 2015
David Dennis
High Sierra
  5.9
David Dennis   High Sierra
  5.9
As of 10/30/14, the left bolt on this climb's anchor was slightly loose and able to be moved up/down and side-to-side. It was tight enough to not pull out when I yanked on it, but there was more movement than you'd like. The right bolt is bomber with decent webbing on it. You can scramble up to the anchors on top of Fat Farm and rap off those if you don't like what you see. FYI! Oct 31, 2014
snicho
Boulder, CO
snicho   Boulder, CO
The gear includes a couple of #1 cams and a #2. #3 optional. Great lead if you have small hands! Oct 31, 2012
Andy Novak
Golden, Co
Andy Novak   Golden, Co
As of 5/10 there is a name plaque at the base of this climb that says "Dr. Awkward, 5.9". Seems about right. May 26, 2010
coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
coop Best   Glenwood Springs, CO
Agree about feeling harder than a 5.9 Feb 16, 2010
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Felt very hard for a 5.9. Think more 5.10...short but it has some thin hands followed by wide hands. Not THAT much easier than wavy gravy for me. Apr 30, 2009
canyonclimber
Casper WY
canyonclimber   Casper WY
Good two bolt anchor at the top. Also you can continue over to the anchor of the OW corner for a TR. Feb 7, 2009