Type: Trad, Sport, 165 ft
FA: Paul Muehl, Pete DeLannoy, and Renn Fenton (7/8/85)
Page Views: 1,416 total · 10/month
Shared By: joelhagan Hagan on Nov 7, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

20 Opinions

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The lower crack is fairly easy climbing with great placement options. After climbing for about 25 feet you traverse to the left over a bulge and do a short traverse. This is a bit scary as there aren't too many gear options. Head up again after about 10 feet with good gear placements behind a flake. The crux for me was the face climbing which starts at about half way up the climb on top of the flakes.


The route is located on the northeast corner of the formation in an obvious dihedral. You can climb this or the nice crack on the face. Two ropes will be needed to get down to your starting point. You may want to bring webbing to replace the anchor. It was ok as of 11/07/07, but usually gets brittle quickly.


The bottom half takes bomber nuts, cams, and I placed a hex as well. The top half is bolted. Bring a lot of slings with biners for the bottom and at least 8 draws for the top bolted section.


Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
Feels easier than Tricouni Nail, Trojan Determination and Four Little Fishes... Safer likewise. Thanks Rich & BHCC for new anchors. Aug 27, 2008
Dave Rone
Custer, SD
Dave Rone   Custer, SD  
An excellent route for sure, one of the best moderates in the Ten Pins area. Great to have new anchors (2008) but they are very poorly placed.

In order to have a compfortable belay and rappel stance, they need to be extended with a 24" runner. IMHO some chain should be added to make them more user friendly. Oct 4, 2010
Ron Bull  
Did this route in the 80's but went right under and around a small roof when we were supposed to go around left onto the face . Paul Muehl told us that we had done a second ascent of a route called "Balls Out". Does this sound correct? Oct 4, 2018