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Mom's Pancake
5.5,
Sport,
Avg: 2.1 from 223
votes
FA: Jim Shimberg
New Hampshire
> Rumney
> Meadows
> Center Section
Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area
Details
Description
Just left of Hippos on Parade (5.9). A pretty good route, yet not a classic. Another route to test your beginnerish skills on without having to suffer any hiking.
Climb the beginning slab directly or stem in the corner to the right. Repeat this all the way to the top pretty much. You either climb the face or stem the corner past bolts and pins to the quick clips up and to the right.
A good rest in the corner at the halfway mark can suck in a nervous newbie and they might have a hard time stepping back out on to the route.
Location
Just of the corner to the left of Lies and Propaganda (5.9)
Protection
6 bolts to quick clips...
[Hide Photo] blending in real good... at the top of Mom's Pancake
Plymouth, NH
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
by the book it looks like a variation to Lies...
When i did Attack of Life i think i missed it cause i did a pure trad line (with one pin) that followed what is now Hippos on Parade... it was R rated and scary but super fun, im glad they bolted it...
This unknown line was very dirty when the last guide came out... Dec 5, 2007
Plymouth, NH
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
Center Harbor, NH
Shim retro-bolted Attack of Life and called it Hippos on Parade (5.9, G IMHO) several years ago. Whatever the name it is a sweet line. Need to remember to ask him why that name. I know there is a climb at Skytop at the Gunks with that name, don't know if it is related.
He also cleaned more recently, a big effort, thanks Jim; and bolted the climb to left of Hippos on Parade, check with Jim for the name. I think he rated it as 5.5 as do I, but ymmv. Last I looked in August, it looked pretty clean.
If memory serves me correctly the old Attack of Life had you making the potential ankle-breaking moves above the anchor now in place to get to the L&P anchors. Definitely PG13!! Jan 5, 2009
Center Harbor, NH
New Hampshire
Fun climb none the less. Mar 13, 2009
Center Harbor, NH
Salem, CT
Bend
Alsip, Il
I back up the first pin in the first horizantal crack with a #2 camalot next to the pin.
The middle horizantal crack i did not protect
The top crack i protected with a #1 Camalot
Watch the top right rocks there kinda sharp right below the anchors. Aug 16, 2010
Boulder, CO
Fun route, grade varies with the holds you decide to use, I think using the corner helps quite a bit. Jun 1, 2011
Rumney, NH
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Vermont, USA
Logan, UT
New Paltz, NY
[Edit: Aug 30 2017 - Felt fine this time, experience helps!] Aug 11, 2014
New Hampshire
New Bedford, MA