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Routes in Head of Sinbad South

Jacks' Tower- Pair of Jacks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sitting Duck Tower - It's all a Farce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 R
Swasey's Secret T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2-
Type: Trad, Aid, 260 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ben Folsom, Maura Hahnenberger Nov. 4th 2007
Page Views: 694 total, 6/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Nov 6, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The route climbs the obvious crack system in the center of the south face.

Pitch 1- C2 climbing passing two bolts to avoid loose rock leads to C1 climbing in a gradually widening crack. When the crack gets too wide for gear, a nine bolt ladder leads to a 5.8 chimney to a two bolt hanging belay on a small stance. 5.8 C2 200ft.

Pitch 2- A 5.8 runout left then up leads to a ledge. Continue up passing two more bolts and a short section of C2 to the summit and a two bolt belay/rappel anchor.

To descend, rappel the route.

Location

This tower is located near Swaseys Secret. From the turnoff to Swaseys Cabing from the Rods Valley Road, go south for 1 mile to a road on the right. Drive west on this road for 0.4 miles to the parking area at the end of the road. The tower is just north of the parking area. Walk up to the base (about 5 minutes from the car).

Protection

Three sets of cams to #4 camalots and 2 #4.5 and #5 camalots. (Those are the old sizes) Expect to do some leapfrogging. Stoppers (or rivet hangers) for four hangerless bolts.

Photos

Ben Folsom  
 
This route should go free. There is a 30 foot section near the bottom that is a little chossy, but could be cleaned up. Other than that, the crack is amazing. All sizes from fingers to chimneys. It would be a long and sustained pitch. Where I placed bolts I was thinking about the free climbing potential and protection. Nov 6, 2007