Type: Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Joe Theobald, Jon Biemer, Doug Black 1972
Page Views: 5,841 total · 41/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Nov 6, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

Pitch 1: Begin below the huge boulder. Climb right along sloping ledge to the huge boulder; comes in from far left or boulder directly up (5.6 pg-13). Either belay on top of huge boulder (recommended to reduce rope drag) or continue climbing up and right to edge of roof (linkcams fit great in a pocket) and head left to the blunt arete. Two old bolts wander up easy bulges on a flakey face. The old first pitch continues past a newer rappel anchor; Some stop here to reduce rope drag. Either way move up to easy groove going towards a small pillar and belay at two bolt belay between main wall and small pillar with belay hole. (180', 5.6 pg-13)
Pitch 2: Climb up and right on run out face (2 bolts) to below the obvious chimney/crack, step right along the buttress and look for the third bolt and some protection. As you approach the belay ledge, stay low and traverse to easier ground just below the anchor. A nice ledge provides some shelter and rest before heading directly right into the huge chimney. (150', 5.5 pg-13) Pitch 3: traverse right into the huge chimney and climb this long pitch until you can reach a ledge on the right side, just before the crack tops out. Look on the west side of the big boulder for the anchor.(5.6, 150')
Pitch 4: step down and across to the main wall where some crumbly looking un-protected face moves with big huecos lead around and right of a crack (spider walk). Climb back into the crack after about 30' and aim for the hole at the top of the rock (100', 5.6 R).
Variation of P4 (recommended 5.7) is to climb the crack directly and avoid the crumbly face moves/Spider Walk. Good protection leads to a wide spot up high. If you don't have a #5 Camalot, look for a thin crack way left below the wide crack (bring a long sling). Otherwise, it's easy OW move or two without protection. If you reached the end of the route at the hole belay, you can add two more pitches to the actual summit.
Pitch 5: Climb out of the hole, turn right and up the leaning crack forming the pillar above the hole. Reach the fixed gear anchor and belay.
Pitch 6: Go left on easy ground to the final finger crack to the top of the spire. Build a gear anchor and downclimb after enjoying the view.
Descent: Rap the route w/ two 60m ropes.

Location

Hike up Siphon Draw trail until you reach North Buttress then head up and left on rocky slope. As you enter Suction Gully head underneath the huge boulder at the bottom of the North Buttress (on your right)

Protection

Draws (runners), stoppers and cams.

Photos