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Routes in Suction Gully

Crying Dinosaur T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lickety Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spider Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Joe Theobald, Jon Biemer, Doug Black 1972
Page Views: 4,933 total, 40/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Nov 6, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

Pitch 1: Begin below the huge boulder. Climb right along sloping ledge to the huge boulder; comes in from far left or boulder directly up (5.6 pg-13). Either belay on top of huge boulder (recommended to reduce rope drag) or continue climbing up and right to edge of roof (linkcams fit great in a pocket) and head left to the blunt arete. Two old bolts wander up easy bulges on a flakey face. The old first pitch continues past a newer rappel anchor; Some stop here to reduce rope drag. Either way move up to easy groove going towards a small pillar and belay at two bolt belay between main wall and small pillar with belay hole. (180', 5.6 pg-13)
Pitch 2: Climb up and right on run out face (2 bolts) to below the obvious chimney/crack, step right along the buttress and look for the third bolt and some protection. As you approach the belay ledge, stay low and traverse to easier ground just below the anchor. A nice ledge provides some shelter and rest before heading directly right into the huge chimney. (150', 5.5 pg-13) Pitch 3: traverse right into the huge chimney and climb this long pitch until you can reach a ledge on the right side, just before the crack tops out. Look on the west side of the big boulder for the anchor.(5.6, 150')
Pitch 4: step down and across to the main wall where some crumbly looking un-protected face moves with big huecos lead around and right of a crack (spider walk). Climb back into the crack after about 30' and aim for the hole at the top of the rock (100', 5.6 R).
Variation of P4 (recommended 5.7) is to climb the crack directly and avoid the crumbly face moves/Spider Walk. Good protection leads to a wide spot up high. If you don't have a #5 Camalot, look for a thin crack way left below the wide crack (bring a long sling). Otherwise, it's easy OW move or two without protection. If you reached the end of the route at the hole belay, you can add two more pitches to the actual summit.
Pitch 5: Climb out of the hole, turn right and up the leaning crack forming the pillar above the hole. Reach the fixed gear anchor and belay.
Pitch 6: Go left on easy ground to the final finger crack to the top of the spire. Build a gear anchor and downclimb after enjoying the view.
Descent: Rap the route w/ two 60m ropes.

Location

Hike up Siphon Draw trail until you reach North Buttress then head up and left on rocky slope. As you enter Suction Gully head underneath the huge boulder at the bottom of the North Buttress (on your right)

Protection

Draws (runners), stoppers and cams.
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
JT Moree, you're a Badass for doing the Spider Walk on 4th pitch. I've only climbed the crack which protects good enough if you're clever. On the second pitch the three bolts follow the buttress on the edge of the huge chimney and you break left to the ledge /anchor when the ledge is directly above you.

The description breezes by the sketchy start and I also break up the original pitches for easier rope management. Dec 22, 2016
JT Moree
Scottsdale, AZ
  5.7 X
JT Moree   Scottsdale, AZ
  5.7 X
> When in the superstitions I have learned to simply be happy with not loosing my life.

"Haha." I thought when I read that. then I climbed this route. Holy Crap! Read ALL the comments before climbing this route and memorize them. I printed them and brought the paper on the climb. We still had a lot of problems.

P1. Beta is pretty good.

P2. DO NOT go straight up or left. I posted a picture of the sketchy gear you rap off of if you go straight up. Check it out. In addition, the bee hive is straight up. You will be throwing rope at it and rapping over it if you go the wrong way. We saw a few bees.

You have to go far right. Find 3 bolts. If you do not find 3 bolts you are off route and may be sorry.

That said, I dont think I found the 3rd bolt and entered the chimney at the giant bird poop stain. From there it was easy climbing to find the 2nd belay station but bad rope drag because I had placed pieces down in the chimney. It would have been easy to miss the anchors if I had not been paying attention because I was down in the chimney too soon I think.

P3. Long but manageable. Good beta

P4. Beta does not do it justice. For the first half everything you grab feels like it is going to come off or actually does. In addition, there is nowhere to put pro as you traverse 35 foot right on choss 3000 ft above the valley--at least if you fall there is not much below to hit but it would be a really nasty swing and ascent back up the rope.

We topped out at sunset so didn’t get to see anything above the climb. Seems like an area with spires that have nice views. I want to go back to get pics but pitch 4 again? Not sure I want to do that. Nov 8, 2016
walmongr
Gilbert AZ
  5.7 PG13
walmongr   Gilbert AZ
  5.7 PG13
Like most routes in the sups it was worth doing once, not much loose stuff except in the gully/chimney pitch. All the belays and bolts are in great shape(the few their are anyway)... Only advice is you can rap from the top of 2 all the way to the rap anchors off left of pitch 1 (60m ropes) but be careful as the rope may go over the west side of the hump where pitch one stops and get hung up. We had one guy stop at the anchors atop pitch-1 and the others go all the way to the last rap anchors and we pulled the ropes from the top of pitch one and a person did an extra rap made pulling them easy from pitch-2 rap. Nov 6, 2016
DSloan  
Climbed on Saturday and saw no bees. Fun time. Feb 25, 2013
FYI...halfway up the 2nd pitch there is a swarm of bees approx 5feet to the left of the route. They are quiet when they are cold but become active once the sun hits them. Thankfully they were so cold and grougy they didnt come out for long but am sure they will get much more active in warm weather. Bee careful! Jan 13, 2013
Adam-phx-trad Saieed
Phoenix, AZ
  5.6 R
Adam-phx-trad Saieed   Phoenix, AZ
  5.6 R
did this route over the weekend. 2nd belay station has 2 new bolts but the right bolt is loose. the hangar and the bolt wiggle around with light to medium force applied. we rapped off this but backed up the first guy with a quickdraw from the good bolt to the loose one. i dont think it would blow just from rapping but it is something to look for. the old bolts with the thin hangars are still there and are solid.
great views on this route definitely worth doing if you dont mind runouts. Apr 2, 2012
Q B
Estes Park
Q B   Estes Park
Climbing is moderate, but if this is near your limit you will feel run out. I guess we linked 2-3. From the boulder (p1) I climbed up past anchors (only 50 feet or so) to the anchors before the chimney, it was a stretch. The bolts did not seem obvious, but arrive when you need them. There are a couple of fun climbs at the top of this route in the cove, which then allow you to scramble up to the highest points of the spires. Climb gets sun into the afternoon. Nice on the cooler days. Mar 12, 2011
The rest of the thread contains great info. If you are planning to climb this - I recommend reading it all. Here are few updates and additional beta for the route:

• The top of ALL pitches now have great new solid anchors.
• The anchors at the top of pitch 3 are on the south-west side of the large bolder at the top of the chimney (they are very hard to find if you don't know this)
• Bring a large cam for pitch 4. I didn't have one big enough, but wished I did. Pitch 4 is the shortest pitch (90 feet).
• Aside from P4 this climb is run-out. If you place a lot of gear then you will experience extreme rope-drag. We had serious drag with very minimal gear placement.
• There are 5 great rappel stations (an extra 1 is halfway down pitch 1). When you rappel, keep in mind where your rope will hang. Leave your rope so that when you pull it you minimize the possibility of your rope sliding into potential hangup spots.
• The pitch 4 anchors are 1,020ft (311 meters) above the siphon draw trail (I brought my rangefinder to get some exact distances).

Great exposure, great fun. Mar 7, 2011
Alan Holzkopf
Mesa, AZ
Alan Holzkopf   Mesa, AZ
ATD (partner) and I just completed this route today. It was my second time - first time was in 2006 when there were a few more bolts in place. There is still only one, ancient, rusty, button-head bolt, along with its rusted hanger, at the top of P1. This is currently the only rap protection from this point since there is nothing to sling and nowhere for pro. The bolt anchors atop P2 and P3 are still in tact, but are equally as ancient. We used the intermediate rap station partway down P1 but it too needs replacement.

This route is in great need of retro bolting. The views from the route are spectacular and make for an enjoyable day in the Superstitions. But due to the poor rock quality and due to all of the anchor bolts looking as if they are ready to blow, I will not be back on this one until I know its been redrilled with new hardware.

One other caution - the hike down along the scree back to Siphon Draw Trail is quite loose. If you are prone to clumsiness then you may want to keep your helmet on while hiking down the climber trail. Mar 15, 2009
Pete Hickman
Tacoma, WA
  5.6 R
Pete Hickman   Tacoma, WA
  5.6 R
If you are going to spider walk pay close attention to these several things:
At the end of the first pitch one of the bolts has sheared/pulled. I found the hanger laying on the ground. This leaves one old bolt for a double rope rap with no other options for pro. Instead of rapping all the way to the ground we rapped from the single bolt to a good rap station half way down the first pitch which I had not seen on the way up. This would be a single rope rap, and then another single rope rap to the start of pitch one, and then another short rap to the ground.
Also, we got off route on the second pitch because I did not go far enough right, and ended up on a huge ledge above and left of the correct end of the second pitch. From here we decided to bail and did a rope stretching double rope rap back to the single bolt at the top of pitch one from a four piece gear anchor someone had left (2 nuts, flex cam, and red tricam). However, we were not able to pull the ropes even though they were not caught on anything. If you find yourself in this position on this huge ledge, single rope rap down and around to the climbers right to find the correct rap station, then set up another rap from that station which you will have to use to pull your original rope. You can then single rope rap to the first bolt on the second pitch which is on a flat spot and not too too sketchy for another short rap to the top of the first pitch.
In order to figure this all out I had to prusik up a 200 foot stuck double rap not once but twice. It was really quite an amazing situation but we got down without dying or leaving any ropes. When in the superstitions I have learned to simply be happy with not loosing my life. Sep 22, 2008