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Routes in Narrows Proper

Art of Breaking, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cantaloupe S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cement Garden, The T,TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Chiroptophobia T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Choss Ninja S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fudge Judge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Jenga Buttress Crack aka 10a Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Other People's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
PWTHFRWDLGS T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
People's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
People's Rebolt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Faction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Screwheads S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sloppy Seconds S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snap, Crackle, Pop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Village Idiot, The T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Lynn Sanson, BJ Sbarra
Page Views: 111 total · 1/month
Shared By: BJ Sbarra on Nov 5, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a good route with some fun, juggy climbing sandwiched by harder sections with smaller holds. It shares an anchor with the route to the right.

Location

It is located on the right side of the Notch as you walk into it, 15 feet left of the arete. This is the leftmost of three routes that all share the same anchor.

Protection

You may want a finger-sized cam to protect the moves getting to the first bolt, or you can use a stick-clip. From there, clip three bolts on your way up the wall.

Photos

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Lynn S  
An Alien will work best for the slot below the bolt, but also a yellow C3 does okay. The move up to where you can clip the bolt (painted) is definitely easier if you have a long reach. You do not want to blow this move without the cam or stick clip, nasty landing in my opinion. May 4, 2008
Move for move, the best thing I did in this area. Continuous, contemplative and steep climbing on solid rock. Jul 8, 2008
Lynn S  
Too bad it is not 40 feet longer, it is fun climbing, glad you enjoyed it. BJ had everything in place, hurt his finger so I was able to swoop in for the FA (with him belaying):) Jul 16, 2008
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
 
Thanks, Brian, I updated the description. Jun 14, 2012
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
 
It's called Lethal Injection, supposed to be 11b, haven't checked it out yet. Jun 18, 2012

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