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Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack
5.10b,
Trad, 35 ft (11 m),
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
FA: Galen Kirkwood, Byron Neal, 1975
California
> San Diego County
> S San Diego County
> Mission Gorge
> Limbo Area
Description
A mostly finger sized crack whose business starts right off the deck. Almost feels like a sport climb with some initial powerful and balancy moves. Once past the crux, follow sustained 5.9 moves up to the roof where you traverse right a little and finish up a short offwidth.
Location
Up the hill past Vawter's Dihedral area but below Apostrophe. A short cliff with a small roof. The roof is split into a very short offwidth section. Can walk around to get off or set a toprope.
Protection
Mostly smaller gear, but the anchor is best with ~3.5" pieces, so take some along. The clear crux is between the first and second protection pieces. The crux is hard and insecure. There is high potential for a short groundfall if you fall on your way to your second piece. A toprope can be had if you feel unfomfortable leading this.
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San Diego, CA