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Routes in (04) The Balcony

Betty's Friend S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Betty's Redemption S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crow's Feet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ego Terrorists S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Purchase Agreement S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ten 'Til Eight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Scott Halliday
Page Views: 30 total, 0/month
Shared By: Alexander Nees on Nov 5, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Rarely climbed, and with awkward and discontinuous climbing, this isn't one of the New Side's best offerings. Scramble up onto a boulder, clip the first bolt, then pull the steep varnished face above (crux). After that, just thrash through the lichen on the slab above to reach the anchor.

Location

At the far right end of the Balcony (really between the Balcony and the Open Face Wall) is this single boltline. The climb starts on top of a large boulder. Rap off the anchor; it's a pain to walk off from this one.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt rap anchor. Yes, a rap anchor!

Photos

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Arthur Sullivan
Albuquerque,NM
5.10d
Arthur Sullivan   Albuquerque,NM
5.10d
The crux is between bolts 2 and 3 and felt more like 10d. Watch out for loose holds in the horizontal above bolt 2. Jul 13, 2009