PRINT: Rock Climb Ezra The Catamite, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Ezra The Catamite

5.8, Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 0 from 0 votes
FA: Kirk Andriano, Bill Robbins, Skeeter Malinski: 1987
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Black Peeler Bu… > Peeler Face

Access Issue: On private land. Details

The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage perpetualstorage.com/index_….

Be respectful of private property.

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Route Description

An obvious, large, low-angle ramp/slab that traverses above Brigham's Beer and joins Batman at its conclusion. Most of the route felt like 4th Class to me. Some short sections had a tricky move or two. Pretty fun climbing.

Approach

Hike to the start of Orangutan Afternoon. Continue another 50' northeast to a section of the wall that is broken. Scramble up just about anywhere (4th Class with occasional short sections with 5th Class moves) to gain the left/southwestern end of a huge ramp.

Protection

I recommend 8 cams (0.4"-2.5"), 8 nuts (0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners & 16 runners (24"). An experienced leader will probably only use half that in a rope length. But they might also choose to simul-climb it, so...

Descent

Climb down to the top of Between Iraq and a Hard Place and rappel from there.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kirk Andriano
Salt Lake City, UT

I was one of the original first ascent members in 1987. Glad to see someone appreciate the climb.

Kirk Andriano Nov 23, 2007