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Ezra The Catamite

5.8, Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: -1 from 0 votes
FA: Kirk Andriano, Bill Robbins, Skeeter Malinski: 1987
Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwo… > Black Peeler Bu… > Peeler Face
Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Route Description

An obvious, large, low-angle ramp/slab that traverses above Brigham's Beer and joins Batman at its conclusion. Most of the route felt like 4th Class to me. Some short sections had a tricky move or two. Pretty fun climbing.

Approach

Hike to the start of Orangutan Afternoon. Continue another 50' northeast to a section of the wall that is broken. Scramble up just about anywhere (4th Class with occasional short sections with 5th Class moves) to gain the left/southwestern end of a huge ramp.

Protection

I recommend 8 cams (0.4"-2.5"), 8 nuts (0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners & 16 runners (24"). An experienced leader will probably only use half that in a rope length. But they might also choose to simul-climb it, so...

Descent

Climb down to the top of Between Iraq and a Hard Place and rappel from there.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I was one of the original first ascent members in 1987. Glad to see someone appreciate the climb.

Kirk Andriano Nov 23, 2007