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Routes in Peeler Face

Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T WI5 M6 R
Birthday Route T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Mamba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Peeler T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13
Ezra The Catamite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Eye T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell Broke Luce T A2+
Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nazi Love Slaves T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
Orangutan Afternoon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peeler Direct C2
Riveting C0
Serpent, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3
Skin Man T A3
Stag Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tin Man T A3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kirk Andriano, Bill Robbins, Skeeter Malinski: 1987
Page Views: 675 total, 6/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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On private land. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Route Description

An obvious, large, low-angle ramp/slab that traverses above Brigham's Beer and joins Batman at its conclusion. Most of the route felt like 4th Class to me. Some short sections had a tricky move or two. Pretty fun climbing.

Approach

Hike to the start of Orangutan Afternoon. Continue another 50' northeast to a section of the wall that is broken. Scramble up just about anywhere (4th Class with occasional short sections with 5th Class moves) to gain the left/southwestern end of a huge ramp.

Protection

I recommend 8 cams (0.4"-2.5"), 8 nuts (0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners & 16 runners (24"). An experienced leader will probably only use half that in a rope length. But they might also choose to simul-climb it, so...

Descent

Climb down to the top of Between Iraq and a Hard Place and rappel from there.

Photos

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I was one of the original first ascent members in 1987. Glad to see someone appreciate the climb.

Kirk Andriano Nov 23, 2007