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Routes in Peeler Face

Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T WI5 M6 R
Birthday Route T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Mamba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Peeler T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13
Ezra The Catamite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Eye T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell Broke Luce T A2+
Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nazi Love Slaves T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
Orangutan Afternoon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peeler Direct C2
Riveting C0
Serpent, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3
Skin Man T A3
Stag Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tin Man T A3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Bill Robbins, Kirk Andriano: 1987
Page Views: 786 total · 6/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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On private land. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Route Description

Pitch 1: Climb a 3" left-diagonalling crack & straight up a 5.10 slab past a bolt & piton. Gain a ledge and belay.
Pitch 2: Continue right, along an exposed ramp (5.11a A0), past 2 pitons.
Pitch 3: Climb straight up a 5.10 offwidth crack.
Pitch 4: Climb over a roof and up a 5.9 slab.

Approach

Hike to Animal Crackers. Continue 200 yards north of Animal Crackers. The approach is arduous. It took me about 75 minutes.

Protection

I recommend 8 cams(0.4"-2.5"), 8 nuts(0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners & 16 runners(24").

Descent

I scrambled down the north side. I did not dare to rappel using the existing hardware on the route. Rappelling the route might be awkward anyway because it traverses so far right.

Photos

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I was one of the original first ascent members in 1987. Glad to see a few folks appreciate the climb.

Kirk Andriano Nov 23, 2007
Doesn't ooo's detailed description cover it well enough? You can't miss it! Nov 13, 2007
Anyone know where this one is? Nov 9, 2007