Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Bill Robbins, Kirk Andriano: 1987
Page Views: 842 total · 6/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Route Description

Pitch 1: Climb a 3" left-diagonalling crack & straight up a 5.10 slab past a bolt & piton. Gain a ledge and belay.
Pitch 2: Continue right, along an exposed ramp (5.11a A0), past 2 pitons.
Pitch 3: Climb straight up a 5.10 offwidth crack.
Pitch 4: Climb over a roof and up a 5.9 slab.

Approach

Hike to Animal Crackers. Continue 200 yards north of Animal Crackers. The approach is arduous. It took me about 75 minutes.

Protection

I recommend 8 cams(0.4"-2.5"), 8 nuts(0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners & 16 runners(24").

Descent

I scrambled down the north side. I did not dare to rappel using the existing hardware on the route. Rappelling the route might be awkward anyway because it traverses so far right.

Photos

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Anyone know where this one is? Nov 9, 2007
Doesn't ooo's detailed description cover it well enough? You can't miss it! Nov 13, 2007
Kirk Andriano
Salt Lake City, UT
Kirk Andriano   Salt Lake City, UT
I was one of the original first ascent members in 1987. Glad to see a few folks appreciate the climb.

Kirk Andriano Nov 23, 2007