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Routes in Peeler Face

Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T WI5 M6 R
Birthday Route T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Mamba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Peeler T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13
Ezra The Catamite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Eye T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell Broke Luce T A2+
Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nazi Love Slaves T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
Orangutan Afternoon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peeler Direct C2
Riveting C0
Serpent, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3
Skin Man T A3
Stag Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tin Man T A3
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Brian Smoot, Bill Robbins: 1987
Page Views: 577 total · 4/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Andrew Gram

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Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Route Description [Edit]

Climb a dihedral with a fixed pin and a 2-bolt station at the top.
I enjoyed the route.

Approach [Edit]

The approach is arduous with a lot of bushwhacking, loose terrain and a 4th Class slab. It took me about 60 minutes. Hike to the base of Animal Crackers. Climb the first 2 pitches of Animal Crackers.

Protection [Edit]

Protection opportunities are frequent along the entire route.
I recommend 8 cams (0.4"-3.5"), 8 nuts (0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners & 12 runners (24"). An experienced leader might use less.

Descent [Edit]

I scrambled north. But you can also do three 2-rope rappels.

Photos

I was looking at this in the guidebook last night and thinking it sounds really cool. Do you know how runnout the slab is, or how well protected the cracks are? Any photos? Nov 9, 2007

More About Missing Vicki & Kirsten

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