Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bill Robbins, Mark Bennett: 1987
Page Views: 415 total · 3/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Route Description

Pitch 1: Climb 70' up a near vertical crack 10' right of Nazi Love Slaves past a piton. Belay on same ledge as Nazi Love Slaves.
Pitch 2: Traverse 30' left on a 4th Class slab. Climb 20' up a 5.10R groove. Diagonal right for 80' to belay at a 2-bolt station directly above previous belay stance.
Pitch 3: Climb 20' up a thin crack. Traverse 10' left to an arete. Climb the low-angle 5.10 arete for another 100'. Belay at a suspect bolt & small tree.

Approach

Hike to Animal Crackers. Continue 200 yards north of Animal Crackers. The approach is arduous. It took me about 75 minutes.

Protection

I recommend 8 cams (0.4"-2.5"), 8 nuts(0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners & 16 runners(24"). Emphasize small sizes.

Descent

I scrambled down the north side.

Photos

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This also looks kinda cool - is it thin slab cracking, or is it more vertical? Might make a nice afternoon between the two of them. Any info would be appreciated. Nov 9, 2007
Thanks TC - this sounds like it will be worth the hike. Nov 23, 2007