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Routes in Peeler Face

Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T WI5 M6 R
Birthday Route T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Mamba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Peeler T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13
Ezra The Catamite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Eye T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell Broke Luce T A2+
Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nazi Love Slaves T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
Orangutan Afternoon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peeler Direct C2
Riveting C0
Serpent, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3
Skin Man T A3
Stag Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tin Man T A3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bill Robbins, Mark Bennett: 1987
Page Views: 401 total, 3/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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On private land. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Route Description

Pitch 1: Climb 70' up a near vertical crack 10' right of Nazi Love Slaves past a piton. Belay on same ledge as Nazi Love Slaves.
Pitch 2: Traverse 30' left on a 4th Class slab. Climb 20' up a 5.10R groove. Diagonal right for 80' to belay at a 2-bolt station directly above previous belay stance.
Pitch 3: Climb 20' up a thin crack. Traverse 10' left to an arete. Climb the low-angle 5.10 arete for another 100'. Belay at a suspect bolt & small tree.

Approach

Hike to Animal Crackers. Continue 200 yards north of Animal Crackers. The approach is arduous. It took me about 75 minutes.

Protection

I recommend 8 cams (0.4"-2.5"), 8 nuts(0.3"-1"), 32 carabiners & 16 runners(24"). Emphasize small sizes.

Descent

I scrambled down the north side.

Photos

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Thanks TC - this sounds like it will be worth the hike. Nov 23, 2007
This also looks kinda cool - is it thin slab cracking, or is it more vertical? Might make a nice afternoon between the two of them. Any info would be appreciated. Nov 9, 2007