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Routes in Peeler Face

Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T WI5 M6 R
Birthday Route T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Mamba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Peeler T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13
Ezra The Catamite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Eye T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell Broke Luce T A2+
Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nazi Love Slaves T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
Orangutan Afternoon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peeler Direct C2
Riveting C0
Serpent, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3
Skin Man T A3
Stag Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tin Man T A3
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Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Kirk Andriano, Kirsten Davis, Bill Robbins, Skeeter Malinski: 1987
Page Views: 1,137 total · 9/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Route Description

This route diagonals to the left. A slick move above the 3rd bolt characterizes the route. Belay at a 2-bolt station. The bolts were recently replaced.

Approach

The approach is a little tough for the last few hundred feet. It took me about 25 minutes, but I was running up the road.

Protection

I recommend 8 cams (0.4"-1"), 8 nuts (0.3"-1"), 24 carabiners & 12 runners (24").
An experienced leader may only use half of that.

Descent

Rappel 65' to the ground from a 2-bolt/chain station.

Photos

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Kirk Andriano
Salt Lake City, UT
Kirk Andriano   Salt Lake City, UT
I was one of the original first ascent members in 1987. Glad to see someone appreciate the climb.

Kirk Andriano Nov 23, 2007
Ben Folsom
  5.11d
Ben Folsom  
  5.11d
The extension of this route which continues above and follows a undercling/flake system to the right is really good. Probably doesn't make the climb any harder, but it does add a lot of pumpy and interesting climbing on good rock. Jul 7, 2010

More About Birthday Route

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