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Routes in Peeler Face

Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T WI5 M6 R
Birthday Route T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Mamba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Peeler T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13
Ezra The Catamite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Eye T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell Broke Luce T A2+
Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nazi Love Slaves T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
Orangutan Afternoon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peeler Direct C2
Riveting C0
Serpent, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3
Skin Man T A3
Stag Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tin Man T A3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Kirk Andriano, Kirsten Davis, Bill Robbins, Skeeter Malinski: 1987
Page Views: 1,092 total, 9/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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On private land. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Route Description

This route diagonals to the left. A slick move above the 3rd bolt characterizes the route. Belay at a 2-bolt station. The bolts were recently replaced.

Approach

The approach is a little tough for the last few hundred feet. It took me about 25 minutes, but I was running up the road.

Protection

I recommend 8 cams (0.4"-1"), 8 nuts (0.3"-1"), 24 carabiners & 12 runners (24").
An experienced leader may only use half of that.

Descent

Rappel 65' to the ground from a 2-bolt/chain station.

Photos

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Ben Folsom
  5.11d
Ben Folsom  
  5.11d
The extension of this route which continues above and follows a undercling/flake system to the right is really good. Probably doesn't make the climb any harder, but it does add a lot of pumpy and interesting climbing on good rock. Jul 7, 2010
I was one of the original first ascent members in 1987. Glad to see someone appreciate the climb.

Kirk Andriano Nov 23, 2007