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Routes in Pharaoh

'Phraid T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bladerunner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
By Cracky T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crack-Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cripple Creek T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gashlycrumb Tinies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hell is for Heros T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lost in the Alps T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On Ramp T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thrash and Dangle T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Time the Avenger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Scott Ayers
Page Views: 993 total · 8/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Nov 4, 2007 with updates from CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Climb 3 bolts of vertical easier climbing with large moves between very good holds, then for the business. The top half of this route has quintessential Mt. Lemmon face climbing on par with the likes of Tsunami and Honker. Choose the best sequence through the quartz bands and scoops using some nice crimps and cool pockets, and you will find yourself at the last bolt with a bit of tricky climbing between you and the chains.

Location

This climbs the tallest section of wall on the back side of the Pharaoh. This climb is best accessed by driving past the Windy point vista and the Goosehead. There are two pullouts on the right past the Goosehead. I have approached this route by parking at the second of these two and hiking down hill toward the Pharaoh.

Protection

6 bolts to chains with steel biners

*Full hardware update Feb. 2015. All hardware courtesy of ASCA and CASA.

Photos

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
A good route to break into the grade. Mar 31, 2009
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.12a
Great Route. Another of the must do 12s on the mountain. Getting to the rings from the last bolt proved to be a little perplexing. If you're not planning on doing any of the gear routes on the front side then this is a good one to lap a few times. No real stopper moves for the grade.

4.8.14

Just updated the route description here. I agree wholeheartedly with Eric. This is a great route to break into Mt. Lemmon 5.12. May 17, 2009
The fixed anchors on this route were updated by CASA in 2016. See the full list of updated climbs at theclimbershome.org/about-t…

Hardware and tools are paid for by your donations, a grant from Access Fund & American Alpine Club, and support from Rocks & Ropes and The BLOC. Jul 9, 2018

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