Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Split Rock

Chimney TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dark Side of the Moon V6 7A
Johnson Arete V4 6B
Johnson Problem V7 7A+ R
Split Decision TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Vaino Problem V4 6B
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 872 total, 7/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Up and over the chockstone into the middle, now just start chimneying - it's fun and a little scary if soloing.

Descend down the short face on the West side.

Location

The obvious chimney.

Protection

Toprope or solo.

Photos

Sorry about the lack of bolts.
I pulled one out about 35 years ago trying to open a jammed locking beaner, the young lady sitting behind me saved my butt from going off that long drop on the east side when the bolt popped out. Feb 19, 2016
dnaiscool  
 
This route is of significant historical importance. Throughout the time climbers have been crawling all over Stoney Point, this route served as THE route to learn the chimney technique.

The RCS (Rock Climbing Section of the Sierra Club...who came here all the time for many decades before becoming extinct in the late 70's) would drop a TR on this route at just about every outing, and newbie climbers would get their first wack at chimney-style movement.

I did my first chimney here when I was just an eight year old kid in 1963, and I imagine thousands of others did also...only most of them were probably a lot older. Apr 27, 2015
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
You can go the Chimney facing either way and also once you are a few feet up you can use just the face holds too. I'm pretty sure there's no bolts on the top so you have to boulder it, not really a free solo. Apr 14, 2011