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Routes in Snakeskin Buttress

Bernerinnen Anstatt Klapperschlangen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blood Meridian S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Caesar Salad S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mexican Gravy Leg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rattler’s Arête S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snakeskin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: James Garret. 12/20/2000
Page Views: 1,126 total, 9/month
Shared By: Craig Martin on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Something about preferring Bernese girls to rattlesnakes. This climb can be found on the east face of the Snakeskin Buttress. The start is in a recessed U-shaped Bowl. Look for a bolt at the start of the first pitch and a left facing dihedral above. This is a very fun climb for those who like old school style climbing. A few off-width moves and some physicality will get you through the second pitch. The last pitch requires some gumption to get started, make sure to get good pro before launching into it. We combined the first two pitches.

Pitch 1: Clip a bolt and climb up into a bowl like feature. Place some pro and pull through to the large ledge. The fixed anchor for this pitch is more a rap station than a belay. Belay here or continue up the next pitch for full value. 5.8, 15 Meters.

Pitch 2: Climb up the awesome left facing dihedral. End on a nice belay ledge with bolts. 5.9, 25 Meters.

Pitch 3: Continue up the dihedral past a steep spot above the belay. Then easier climbing to the top. 2 bolt belay. 5.9, 20 Meters.

Descent: Rappel the route from fixed anchors with one rope.

Protection

One set of camming devices to 3 inch, one set TCU's, 1 set of nuts and slings. 60 Meter rope.
Nicholas Spiropulos
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.9+
Nicholas Spiropulos   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.9+
This climb is pretty freaking awesome. The belay ledges are huge and the crack is fun. Arguably one of the best routes in IBEX. The bulge on pitch 3 is pretty stout for 5.9. Oct 2, 2017
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
The Pitch 3 bulge felt like a sandbag at 5.9, but I've also got huge hands which made the #1 sized flaring jams feel very insecure. The crux protects great with a #.75 so it's perfectly safe, just kind of awkward. Run the first two pitches together for the best experience. Dec 20, 2014
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.9
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.9
Awesome rock! Found the bulge on P3 pretty stout! May 31, 2011