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Routes in Trilogy Buttress

Along Came a Strider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frodo Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gollum's Column S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lord of the Slings S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Precious T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nine in Black S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ranger Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Return of the King S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadow and Flame S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shards of Narsil S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown name S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wizardly Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Jim and Christian Knight
Page Views: 1,231 total, 10/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Nov 3, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Fun climbing on fairly solid quartzite, with the occasional loose hold and plenty of loose, smaller rocks to keep your belayer paying attention.

Start up on positive edges, with a few small ledges on the way. Surmount a small roof (which looks harder from the ground than it turns out to be) and find yourself at a broken crack. The last bolt is to your right. Clip it and either climb up next to the crack or traverse right bit, climb over the bolt and up to the anchors.

This is a great first pitch for continuing up to the upper face of Trilogy Buttress, or this is a reasonable route in its own right.

Location

After reaching the lower, south facing buttress containing the original, 5.6 first pitch of Lord of the Slings, continue around to the left looking for a bolted line on the wall to your right. On a face that faces more south than west the first bolt of this route is visible about 15 feet up and has a rusty patina.

Protection

9 bolts, hangers-and-rings anchor.
Christian "crisco" Burrell
PG, Utah
  5.8
Christian "crisco" Burrell   PG, Utah
  5.8
This is the better way to go to start the rest of the Trilogy lines. Mar 13, 2009