Type: Trad
FA: various, Fletcher 8/85
Page Views: 1,596 total · 12/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 2, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

An adventurous trad pitch that starts as for Men in White Suits (5.9) and continues to trend right following a weakness to the top of the cliff.

Not very memorable save for the loose, dirty, poorly protected climbing.

Location

Start as for Men in White Suits. head up and right.

Protection

Trad gear.

Photos

- No Photos -
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I think I remember discussion on this getting retroed, is there any true to it or is just a figment of my imagination? Oct 5, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Yeah, Bradley gave the OK on it. I had thought to do it some time in the future, but if somebody else is up to doing it well, please go for it. It should definitely be glue-ins as it will be done a lot and regular bolts would loosen up. My retroing funds are pretty shot at the moment. Oct 5, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I would do it but:
a) cant afford it now
b) I don't know how to bolt haha.

I was just curious about it. Oct 5, 2010
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
What is the matter with keeping it traditional?? Is the pro poor? Jun 18, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
So I have been told.. a mediocre trad route that would be a nice, fairly long moderate if it was cleaned up and some bolts and an anchor added. Jun 19, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.6
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.6
i say leave it as it is cause now it would cross Tim Kemple Sr's new route and it would just be a cluster for a route thats not great... his new route (Full Nelson) does add at least 1 helpful peace of pro (bolt) however... Jun 20, 2011
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
How easy would it be to access the ledge where Flying Squirrel starts from this route (or Half Nelson?). I was looking over this way from the ledge (below Mister Meaner) and was thinking I might be able to wander up it in approach shoes with my backpack still on. Any ideas? Jun 17, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
It is more sketchy than it looks from the ground. Jun 18, 2012
bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
Since when is bitch an inappropriate or obscene word? I heard 'life's a b**ch' and every guide book has written bitches. I'm just having fun with it. I understand not wanting to offend anyone. Brendan had no bitch about the route's name.
This climb was originally a free solo we all did in 4/1980 to top rope the cliff's right side from the large tree ledge.
From the left side of the tree ledge the climb's crux finish was done by Fletcher to access the top rope we climbed. Historically, Fletcher did the entire climb's first ascent finish, bringing rope to the top. Most of our beginners climbing club and the a couple of our expert instructor friends were there. So, it became a first recorded ascent in 1985. Jun 20, 2012
This route has decayed into the oblivion of rumney adventure trad, enjoy! Oct 31, 2015