Bear Mountain Picnic Massacre (Original 5.8)
Avg: 3 from 21 votes
|Type:||Trad, 310 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Jay Foley, Paul Judges, Donna Longo and Joaquin Kline|
|Page Views:||5,267 total, 43/month|
|Shared By:||Mike Howard on Nov 1, 2007|
|Admins:||Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionAn excellent description is already published in Jay's Book.
Pitch 1 - Climb starts at cairned slab. The belay stance is in an alcove on a narrow ledge. Rope-up below small tree and stay on slab left of gully to large tree with slings (1st belay).
Pitch 2 - From here you can continue left on 5.7 slab to anchor at base of wall (pass 2nd tree with slings - this tree is 61 meters from the starting ledge). The other choice (preferred) climbs up right from the first belay to a bolted 5.10 slab.
Pitch 3 - The 3rd pitch is stellar. Bring adequate runners for slinging chicken heads. Three choices on the finish. The standard goes direct into the short steep cleft with a finger to hand sized cam protecting the final 5.8 moves. Other finishes go left on 5.7 unprotectable slab with wild exposure or right into the loose gully (5.5?). One of the best 5.8 trad pitches anywhere.
"The top pitch of the Five Eight Variant was pure magic, dramatis, steep and yet with superb holds" Sir Chris Bonnington.
LocationApproach as for Questa Dome but turn left and work way uphill about 50 ft. prior to finally reaching stream. Walk between boulders on faint climber trail to base of Legs (of El Oso).
Per Chris Wenker:
A 2-bolt anchor at the top of P3 sports a bunch of tat slings and cord (and a screw-link that I backed up with a locking biner). Plan for possibly having to replace some sling. A 2-rope rap (145' according to Foley) takes you to the slung tree on P2. This slung tree may also occasionally need tat removal/replacement, and has a screw-link and a locking biner. Another 2-rope rap from here (minimum 165' according to Foley) takes you to the base of the climb. 60 m ropes will set you down exactly where you started, with no rope to spare.
Single rope descent (with one more pitch of great climbing)
Per Jason Halladay:
A great way to finish this route (and avoid the double-rope rappels descent) is to climb one more pitch of 5.8 to finish on the summit of the Questa Flatiron via the last bit of the Questa Flatiron Original Route.
To do this, move the belay from the top of the BMPM route to the tree with slings on the top of the Legs. Then climb fun cracks and the wild arête to the top of the Questa Flatiron. A short 45' rappel off the summit and into the gully on the backside of the flatiron affords you a nice, swift walk off in gullies to the west and then south back to the approach trail. With this descent, there's no need to climb with two ropes.