Type: Trad, 310 ft (94 m), 3 pitches
FA: Jay Foley, Paul Judges, Donna Longo and Joaquin Kline
Page Views: 9,067 total · 46/month
Shared By: Mike Howard on Nov 1, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

An excellent description is already published in Jay's Book.
Pitch 1 (5.7) - Climb starts at cairned slab. The belay stance is in an alcove on a narrow ledge. Rope-up below small tree and stay on slab left of gully to large tree with slings (1st belay) or pass this small tree, climb 10' more to a two-bolt anchor (no rings/chain, just two bolts/hangers.)

Pitch 2 (5.7 or 5.10) - From here you can continue left on 5.7 slab to a gear anchor (#2 camalot and a bigger nut work great) on a sloping, nice ledge at the base of wall (pass 2nd tree with slings - this tree is 61 meters from the starting ledge). The other choice (preferred) climbs up right from the first belay to a bolted 5.10 slab.

Pitch 3 (5.8) - The 3rd pitch is stellar. Bring adequate runners for slinging chicken heads. Three choices on the finish. The standard goes direct into the short steep cleft with a finger to hand sized cam protecting the final 5.8 moves. Other finishes go left on 5.7 unprotectable slab with wild exposure or right into the loose gully (5.5) to the flat top with a big tree with slings on it. One of the best 5.8 trad pitches anywhere.
"The top pitch of the Five Eight Variant was pure magic, dramatis, steep and yet with superb holds" Sir Chris Bonnington.

Pitch 4 (5.8) - The original BMPM route ended at a bolted belay/rappel anchor at the top of pitch 3. But do yourself a favor and climb one more 40m pitch to the summit of the Questa Flatiron. Instead of stopping at the belay/rappel anchors at the top of pitch 3, continue up to the large tree with slings on it. From the big tree with slings, climb up a short slab with a finger crack to reach the ridge. Climb left along the ridge staying on the ridge proper or just to the left. Clip a single bolt protecting an airy, thin move to a huge, round hueco. Cruise great chicken heads to the summit. From the summit, do a 40' rap off a bolted anchor down into the gully behind the summit and walk back down to your packs at the base. See the "Descent" section below.

Location Suggest change

Approach as for Questa Dome but turn left and work way uphill about 50 ft. prior to finally reaching stream. Walk between boulders on faint climber trail to base of Legs (of El Oso).

Trailhead: N36°47.8597 W105° 32.8762

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack, few extra runners for slingin' necks.

Descent Suggest change

Double-rope descent

Per Chris Wenker:

A 2-bolt anchor with chains at the top of P3 allows for a 2-rope rap (145' according to Foley) to the slung tree on P2. This slung tree may occasionally need tat removal/replacement, and has a screw-link and a locking biner. Another 2-rope rap from here (minimum 165' according to Foley) takes you to the base of the climb. 60m ropes will set you down exactly where you started, with no rope to spare.

Single rope descent (with one more pitch of great climbing)

Per Jason Halladay:

A great way to finish this route (and avoid the double-rope rappels descent) is to climb one more pitch of 5.8 to finish on the summit of the Questa Flatiron via the last bit of the Questa Flatiron Original Route.

To do this, move the belay from the top of the BMPM route to the tree with slings on the top of the Legs. Then climb fun cracks and the wild arête to the top of the Questa Flatiron. A short 40' rappel off the summit and into the gully on the backside of the flatiron affords you a nice, swift walk off in gullies to the west and then south back to the approach trail. With this descent, there's no need to climb with two ropes.