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Routes in (03) Wall of Dreams

Chai Tea S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crescent Moon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Flakes Don't Fail Me Now S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Crack T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lost Boys T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
On the Edge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sink or Swim S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stolen Dreams S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Time Bandits S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Turquoise Classic Thunder T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Scott Halliday
Page Views: 58 total, 0/month
Shared By: Alexander Nees on Oct 31, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Reasonably fun line up a steep, smooth slab. Crux is right around the second bolt, although the mantle higher up gives some people trouble too. The rock is pretty good, but the shade and lack of traffic means there's a lot of lichen on this climb. A bit run out (on easy terrain) to the anchors.

Location

The only boltline on the left side of the large, prominent detached flake (see beta photo). This is one of the only climbs on the New Side that gets morning sun and afternoon shade. A good cool-down on hot days. Rap off the anchor to get down.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt rap anchor that is shared with "Time Bandits." The anchor is WAY back there, so far that it's not really practical to try and get the anchor over the lip of the climb. Just use two single-length runners on the bolts and call it good.

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