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Routes in (03) Wall of Dreams

Chai Tea S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crescent Moon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Flakes Don't Fail Me Now S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Crack T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lost Boys T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
On the Edge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sink or Swim S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stolen Dreams S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Time Bandits S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Turquoise Classic Thunder T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 394 total, 3/month
Shared By: Alexander Nees on Oct 31, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

One of the most enjoyable trad lines at Mentmore, Happy Crack makes a great warm-up. Also a good cool-down at the end of the day since you can easily lower off of it, avoiding the typical Mentmore anchor-retrieval shenanigans.

A nice combination of liebacking, stemming, and straight-in jamming, this is a good climb to introduce beginners to these techniques. It protects well, although at the final offwidth lieback section, it's probably easier to just run it out than to hang around attempting to frig some gear into the crack.

The rock is pretty good, but at Mentmore that never means more than just "O.K." Try not to fall, and toprope the line if not solid at the grade. Note that you DON'T need jamming skills to climb this one.

Location

The obvious dihedral with a widening crack, found between "Sink or Swim" and "On the Edge." You'll be able to see the anchor chains hanging over the lip at the top. The anchor is a normal chain sport anchor, so this climb is one of the few at Mentmore that can be rapped off or lowered off easily. Please don't toprope directly through the chains.

Protection

Bring 1X C4s .75-3, plus one or two big pieces for the top (like a #5 Friend).

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