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Amnesia
V5,
Boulder,
Avg: 2.9 from 74
votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire
> Pawtuckaway
> Blair Woods
> Swirley Boulder
Access Issue: Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See
Details
Go to nhstateparks.org/visit/stat… for info and to make a reservation. This may change to every day in the future.
Description
A great route that combines lots of burl and reach with a bit o' technique. Start under the roof and climb out on decent holds, then onto the face on some crimps. Get yourself established and make a big move to the left to a small rail. From there the moves get easier, pinch a cool quarts nob and top out.
Location
On the swirly boulder, to the left of the tree on the left of "Child of the Storm." Starts from a sit under the low roof.
[Hide Photo] Went out to Swirley on 12/14/2020 and found a key hold ripped off of Amnesia, A decent edge was left behind but I would imagine it bumps the grade up a tiny bit.
[Hide Photo] Put up my left foot before adjusting left hand to the good crimp.
[Hide Comment] AKA Sally Goes to a Rave. I like this problem, but I've heard it's tough on folks 5-8 and shorter. Not that that should stop anyone from trying it!
Jun 23, 2008
[Hide Comment] Got on this route yesterday. There is trick beta for shorter people. There is a micro/ credit card crimp that can be used as an intermediate from the flake to the rail. It isn't much but it allows you to push up off the flake and balance out as you grab the rail.
Jan 4, 2016
[Hide Comment] A good incut edge was left behind during the break. The new hold is comparable to the old one. However you're right hand will now be a bit lower for what was already a reachy move for myself (I'm 5'6). Still totally goes but likely a bit harder, didn't try it though given it was quite wet.
Dec 17, 2020
[Hide Comment] Since the jug broke a while back I think upgrading this route could be a good idea. The moves up the slab seem considerably harder.
Apr 16, 2022
Access Issue: Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See
Details
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Tired
Henniker, NH
Portland, ME
Windham, ME
Pepperell, MA
Dover, NH
The moves up the slab seem considerably harder. Apr 16, 2022