Black Rose (AKA Emerald Forest)
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13
Avg: 3.6 from 24 votes
Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 3,457 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Chad Umbel on Oct 29, 2007 · Updates |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Man this route is rad. Start climbing off the nice little ledge on some pretty thin slabbin straight up the black water streak (crux). On this section you will make your way past five bolts until you gain a nice little crack on your right after a nice rest. Climb up the crack system which is really cool using finger locks, hand jams and crimps until you hit another bolt at about 100 feet.
At this point, bust out right and do a cruxy move pulling the buldge on your right, while clippin another bolt. After you pull the buldge, start breakin left onto the slab clipping the last bolt for a while. Climb up the slab until you're quite a ways off that bolt (30 feet) and climb into a shallow corner. There is a blue TCU placement on the left side of the corner if you feel like you need some pro.
At this point, bust out right and do a cruxy move pulling the buldge on your right, while clippin another bolt. After you pull the buldge, start breakin left onto the slab clipping the last bolt for a while. Climb up the slab until you're quite a ways off that bolt (30 feet) and climb into a shallow corner. There is a blue TCU placement on the left side of the corner if you feel like you need some pro.
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