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Routes in Church Rock

Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sacrilicious T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: MWD and VM
Page Views: 664 total · 5/month
Shared By: Vince MacMillan on Oct 29, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Skitter up the rotten flake past a profane (yet pacifyingly solid) bolt and wiggle a couple of blue Aliens into the tips crack. From there, the crack goes through the size range. More of an endurance route than a cruxy one, but the .75 Camalot section is where I was feeling it the most (someone else needs to verify the grade). And just remember, this ain't granite (or Wingate for that matter): sew it up!

Location

This is the new route located on the east side of Church Rock. And by new, I mean in the geological sense, as in recent massive rock fall left a clean beautiful dihedral that can't be missed by any circumambulist. Descent: same as for the Regular Route.

Protection

One bolt protects the ramp at the bottom. Triple rack of cams from tips to hands, with one cupped hand and one fist-sized piece. Keep a few small pieces to belay your pard up to the ledge as there are no anchors. We used the rappel "turtle" on the north end of the formation to get off (hmmm, interesting indeed), after summiting via the Regular Route.

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