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Routes in Head of Sinbad South

Jacks' Tower- Pair of Jacks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sitting Duck Tower - It's all a Farce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 R
Swasey's Secret T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2-
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Glime- solo, 10/28/07
Page Views: 1,392 total, 11/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on Oct 29, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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This route climbs the north face up a series of meandering cracks which lead to a diagonal seam protected by three bolts, then on to the summit.

This is a very fun desert tower climb up good rock in a very non-threatening atmosphere. The 'table-top' is a very nice place to be.


If you are able to see Turkey Tower, and follow the road that leads to its base, Jacks' is due north. There are a few roads that lead to it. It is also in the valley that Eagle Canyon South Road dumps into. But driving the Eagle Canyon south road in a truck is NOT recommended. This tower is located south of Swaseyland and north of Turkey Tower.


One set of cams from a Red Alien to a Yellow Camalot. Above the bolts there are two great middle to big nut placements (not really needed by that point.)


John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
Thanks Andrew.

Two comments about this route.

On the FA, I was up on the face in the area of the bolts when a few cowboys rode past on their horses. They meandered below me (basically right below me), I stopped all movement and they had no idea I was there. I watched them continue on their way, and then I continued my way.

Second, both of my grandfathers' names were Jack, and they are both gone from the Earth. For whatever reason, on that day, alone in the desert (well except for the cowboys!) my grandfathers were on my mind. They are both instrumental in who I am, and I miss them both terribly. This climb was a minor tribute to their memory. Nov 17, 2008
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
5.8 A0. In order to do it all free, I think it would be harder than 5.10 Nov 17, 2008
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Very nice route in a beautiful setting. It is really 5.8 C0. The bolt protected section is pretty hard but easy to french free - maybe 5.10? Its an impressive looking tower to go free so easily - nice find John.

It is a little tricky to find. From the south, drive past Turkey Tower for a few miles(you can't see the tower from the road near Turkey Tower). After you descend into a low tree filled wash, keep your eyes peeled for a road heading sharply left from the main road. Keep straight at all junctions passing the sign for Eagle Canyon. Shortly after that sign you'll see this tower on the right side of the road. High clearance and 4WD are recommended. Nov 17, 2008