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All Locations > California > Sierra Eastside > Lone Pine Area > Alabama Hills > The Shark's Fin

Pirates on Horseback

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British


 Avg: 2.4 from 84 votes

Routes in The Shark's Fin

Coral Sea Adventure S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Black Mama S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ol' White Pappy S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pirates on Horseback S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shark's Fin Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Boulder Problem V0- 4-
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tim Standing, 2007
Page Views: 2,368 total · 18/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Oct 29, 2007 with updates from Eugenel Espiritu
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A steep start past three tightly-spaced bolts leads to easier climbing up the arete.

Expect lots of loose rock and marginal holds--this route might be quite hard when it cleans up.

Location

Directly opposite the famous 5.7 arete (and just left of Coral Sea Adventure). 

Protection

7 bolts to 2-bolt anchor with Mussy Hooks.

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Photos

"Pirates on Horseback".<br> Photo by Blitzo.
"Pirates on Horseback". Photo by Blitzo.
 2
Amy Jo Ness on "Pirates on Horseback".<br> Photo by Blitzo
Amy Jo Ness on "Pirates on Horseback". Photo b…
 1
"Pirates on Horseback".<br> Photo by Blitzo.
"Pirates on Horseback". Photo by Blitzo.
 1
Pirates on Horseback.
Pirates on Horseback.
 0
Mike running up Pirates on Horseback
Mike running up Pirates on Horseback
 0
Pirates on Horseback, 5.10b. Fun route with incredible views!
Pirates on Horseback, 5.10b. Fun route with inc…
 0
Trevor at the third bolt chalking up.
Trevor at the third bolt chalking up.
 0
Michael on Pirates on Horseback @ Shark's Fin. <br> Alabama Hills - Lone Pine, Ca
Michael on Pirates on Horseback @ Shark's Fin.…
 0
"Pirates on Horseback".<br> Photo by Blitzo.
"Pirates on Horseback". Photo by Blitzo.
 0
Route topo for the South Arete of the Shark's Fin
Route topo for the South Arete of the Shark's Fin
 0

8 Comments

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Bruce Bindner
Bruce Bindner  
This route is called Pirates on Horseback, rated 5.10b. FA Tim Standing, 2007. Oct 31, 2008
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10a/b
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10a/b
Pretty good climbing on fair to poor rock. Curious placements on the first few bolts. Easier to just skip the first one rather than trying to clip it. Watch out when you lower off the top. The anchors are such that you will whip around the corner to the steep side of the Fin and abrade your rope pretty good. May 4, 2009
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10a
definitely not 10+, fun, decent holds, tightly bolted on the bottom Dec 18, 2013
butters
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
  5.10a/b
butters   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
  5.10a/b
2nd bolt can be skipped, epic views. Jan 26, 2014
BAd
  5.10
BAd  
  5.10
Didn't find a lot of loose stuff--fun and kinda stout. 10b is prolly fine. I gave it the good ol' 5.10 grade. I'm more of the 10-/10/10+ school. Mar 14, 2015
George Wu
Newport Beach, CA
George Wu   Newport Beach, CA
Must have been climbed enough since the original review. I found the route reasonably clean - nothing loose that concerned me at all. Jul 18, 2015
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
Aesthetic, scenic, and clean... this is the best route on the Fin. First moves off the deck are steep but well adorned with positive edges - no harder than 10a. Love the thoughtful slab moves on the upper arete - also around 10a. Sep 19, 2016
hikingdrew
Los Angeles, CA
 
hikingdrew   Los Angeles, CA
 
Opening moves drew blood, sharp flakes.. Apr 8, 2018

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