Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Shark's Fin

Coral Sea Adventure S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Black Mama S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ol' White Pappy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pirates on Horseback S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shark's Fin Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Boulder Problem V0- 4-
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tim Standing, 2007
Page Views: 2,142 total · 17/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Oct 29, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

75 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


A steep start past three tightly-spaced bolts leads to easier climbing up the arete.

Expect lots of loose rock and marginal holds--this route might be quite hard when it cleans up.


Directly opposite the famous 5.7 arete.


7 bolts to 2-bolt anchor with Mussy Hooks.
This route is called Pirates on Horseback, rated 5.10b. FA Tim Standing, 2007. Oct 31, 2008
Russ Walling
Russ Walling
Pretty good climbing on fair to poor rock. Curious placements on the first few bolts. Easier to just skip the first one rather than trying to clip it. Watch out when you lower off the top. The anchors are such that you will whip around the corner to the steep side of the Fin and abrade your rope pretty good. May 4, 2009
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
definitely not 10+, fun, decent holds, tightly bolted on the bottom Dec 18, 2013
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
butters   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
2nd bolt can be skipped, epic views. Jan 26, 2014
Didn't find a lot of loose stuff--fun and kinda stout. 10b is prolly fine. I gave it the good ol' 5.10 grade. I'm more of the 10-/10/10+ school. Mar 14, 2015
George Wu
Newport Beach, CA
George Wu   Newport Beach, CA
Must have been climbed enough since the original review. I found the route reasonably clean - nothing loose that concerned me at all. Jul 18, 2015
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
Aesthetic, scenic, and clean... this is the best route on the Fin. First moves off the deck are steep but well adorned with positive edges - no harder than 10a. Love the thoughtful slab moves on the upper arete - also around 10a. Sep 19, 2016

More About Pirates on Horseback

Printer-Friendly Guide