Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Sprague 2/05
Page Views: 9,467 total · 60/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 29, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is a link up that combines new and borrowed parts of older routes, resulting in a three pitch 5.8+ that goes the full height of the cliff.

Pitch one: is a fun ramble up moderate (5.7)rock. The first few moves will make you look like a super star without too much effort thanks to the super jugs on the steep rock. A few interesting moves after that but mostly jug hauling to a nice ledge with an anchor. Most people lower off from here for a nice single pitch sport route. If continuing above, you can combine this with the next, short pitch, or stop here and combine the next two.

Pitch two: From the ledge, head up and left through a notch at about 5.7, then continue angling left on easier ground to the Sesame Street anchor (this pitch is short but has few cool moves) The bolts leading straight up after the notch rather than heading over to the anchors is an alternative pitch Bourbon Street' that goes at 5.10c.

Pitch three: From the Sesame anchors continue directly up a corner and easy (5.4) eyebolt protected ground to a bolted anchor. This pitch is pleasant, but it was never fully cleaned, so be aware of a large, potentially loose rock on the side and that you are probably climbing above people who can't see you. If you are going to continue up the next, trad pitch, The White Buttress, 5.9, you may want to continue above the bolted anchors and belay from a tree.

Pitch four: See the description for The White Buttress.

Getting down: From the pitch one anchor at the ledge, you can lower with a 60m rope. From the 2nd or 3rd pitches you will need to do a couple raps, but be very aware of people below and knocking stuff down on them. If you go all the way to the top of the White Buttress it is best to hike down. If you walk a bit back you will run into the Overland trail. Right (safest but longer)takes you over to Orange Crush in a minute where you can follow the trail down. Left crosses the seasonal stream that forms the Venus Falls. If you cross it and follow it down a little, you can scramble down to the right above and then down the edge of the Venus Wall (exposed) This is fastest, but not suggested unless you have already come up that way and know your way around. Screw up and you can easily come down too fast.

Location

Just right of sesame street (5.10c) start on steep somewhat dirty but juggy rock.

Protection

10 bolts to 1st anchor anchor. 60m rope is a good idea i think and stick clipping the first bolt is recommended. Bring slings and some longer draws so you don't get rope drag.

Photos