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Routes in The Shark's Fin

Coral Sea Adventure S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Face S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Black Mama S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ol' White Pappy S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pirates on Horseback S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shark's Fin Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Boulder Problem V0- 4-
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Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,930 total · 23/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Oct 29, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


86 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

A fun, easy chimney sequence gets things started. The crux face moves are located mid-route. Nice steep rock leads to the anchors.

Better rock quality and better movement than the more-famous arete.

Location [Suggest Change]

Climbs the center of the East face.

Protection [Suggest Change]

6 lead bolts (with 2 additional off-route bolts to the right--one of which is a classic 1/4" button-head).

The top anchor consists of 2 open shuts with mussey hooks attached (an unusual pairing).

Photos

Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.7
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.7
Try the route without doing the chimney moves. Checks in at "tough" 5.9. :) Dec 22, 2008
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.6
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.6
Might be the best the Fin has to offer. Good climbing for the grade. We went slightly right at the top past the 1/4" spinner. May 4, 2009
LifeIsGood
Reno, NV
 
LifeIsGood   Reno, NV
 
Again, we pulled the sissy stick out and stuck the first bolt with it. The stemming up the chimney was interesting.... :-) May 15, 2010
hyadventure
Santa Ana
  5.8-
hyadventure   Santa Ana
  5.8-
I'm confused! I just checked my guide book and in the text it rates this climb at 5.6, this page says the traditional rating is 5.7, but if you look at the topo in the guidebook (right above the text) it clearly labels the route .8? It felt kinda stiff for a .7 to me, so I'm going with the rating on the topo.

One of the hangers has been removed from the bolt higher up, but there is a slightly off route bolt you can clip in its place. Just remember to bring one longer draw or sling. May 8, 2012
Ben Lin
Anaheim, CA
 
Ben Lin   Anaheim, CA
 
Bolt 5 is missing and only the threaded stud remains. Used a long runner to clip on a bolt on the far right. Mar 28, 2016
Richard O'Neal
Lancaster, Ca
  5.9
Richard O'Neal   Lancaster, Ca
  5.9
Maybe I was having a bad day, but I cant fathom how that was a 5.7. More of a 5.9 to me. Beware the top, there was a HUMONGOUS flying red ant hive at the top! Got stung a few times, had to bail fast. Jun 6, 2016
Bailey Smith
  5.8
Bailey Smith  
  5.8
Little tough but I'm not sure I stayed on route. Felt like more secure rock than the arete route. Sep 7, 2016

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