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Routes in Cracked Wall

Beans and Franks T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
First Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Montana Wildhack TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Quasar T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Scalped T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Second Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixth Sense T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tasmanian Devil TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Third Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomahawk TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watch Me T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Al Long, Alan Rubin, August 1980
Page Views: 406 total · 3/month
Shared By: percious on Oct 29, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

Find the right-most crack which drops into a large overhang. The overhang is fun to pull if you want to start it that way. Follow the crack to the ledge above. There is a good crack at the top to set a belay, or you can hike up to the pine trees and set one from there. The crux section is pulling through the bulge in the center of the climb, but it is well protected. The rest of the route is pretty sustained, but there are some rests. Most people consider this route 5.7+.

Protection

Standard CT Rack.

Photos

Kurtz
  5.7+
Kurtz  
  5.7+
Looks safer than it is. A lot of the crack is flared and does not take pro very well. It's not a long route so place as much as you can, when you can.

You can create toprope anchors at the trees or by slinging the block at the top with a cordelette. Oct 1, 2012
bergschrund  
 
I disagree with it not taking pro very well. There's great gear the whole way. The pro may be a little strenuous to place at the bottom, but if you get your body into good position you can hang on and find bomber gear. Getting up underneath the overhang you have to make a couple moved where your feet are ~2 feet above your gear, but other than that you're never far from your last piece. Also, pulling the crux is super well protected by either smaller cams or nuts.

Awesome climbing, well protected, a must do moderate if you come to Pinnacle. Nov 8, 2012
Kurtz
  5.7+
Kurtz  
  5.7+
uhhhh...Dude, you decked from 25 feet up when all of your pro blew! At least you didn't land on me. ;^) May 8, 2013
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Ha... glad all are okay but I think this is really funny. Typical CT stuff here... oh yeah great gear, until you actually fall on it. May 8, 2013
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
i thought the gear was fine , after avoiding leading it for a long time because of all the talk of bad gear. Takes bomber stoppers in several spots, a red c-3 works well in the thin crack, block section before the bulge crux. All textbook placements, spaced out a bit in places, but what you get is solid. Unless you fall on it? Not sure P.G. is justified. Maybe G-PG? Aug 22, 2013
Nic the brit
  5.7+
Nic the brit  
  5.7+
The gear on this route is fine but it takes a lot of fiddling and turning some of the nuts so they are flat. I had some trepidation before setting off but soon relaxed when I found good gear. I had to pull some out on abseil as they were jammed in so hard. Jul 20, 2014
I thought the gear was plenty sufficient and the less-than-vertical face along with ample foot placements allow for the bit of creativity and fiddling around with nuts that Nic the Brit noted above. Also, the less-than-vert face makes the bulge much more manageable than it may appear when viewed directly from below. Jul 23, 2017

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