Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,611 total · 12/month
Shared By: percious on Oct 29, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

Climb middle right leaning crack on the wall.
This is my favourite climb on the cracked wall. Interesting crux sections with a crack that just fades away. The crux has no protection and puts you in ground fall, so don't head up this one unless you know you can climb it. There are two pines at the top ledge that can be used for a TR, or you can head all the way up and use some beefier trees.

Protection

Crux has no protection with ground fall potential, so watch out. Otherwise, Gear to 1", nuts and cams. I think I usually bring a ball-nut or two on this one for the thin crack near the top.

Photos

While I don't remember what piece precisely goes in near the crux, there is pro. I am a coward, and I have lead this many times. Like many climbs in CT, you need a variety of tools and some ingenuity to protect. Dec 8, 2009
Tom Sherman
Bristol, RI
Tom Sherman   Bristol, RI
I had no problem protecting this. I did run it out towards the top, which may be the crux. This was actually due to feeling comfortable/ awkward stances. I had two beautiful constrictions perfect (textbook) for passive pro, but both ill-aligned with my best stances. On both the placement was just out of my reach, but then after moving up aligned around mid-thigh (6'-2") and I opted to keep moving. Actually hardest part for me was gaining the crack, it was slightly awkward. Dec 14, 2015
If your comfortable leading at 5.7 this is a great lead. You have amazing positive holds for the ground fall potential near the bottom. The last 15 ft before topping out can be difficult to find gear. So if your nervous drop two good pieces and go for it concentrating only on your moves. Oddly enough there is an anchor station at the top. Two bolts w chains. Please build your anchor w slings carabineers off of anchor station. Thank you Oct 27, 2017
Nathan Hackmeister
Colebrook, CT
Nathan Hackmeister   Colebrook, CT
  • * additional ground fall hazard **
There is now a short wooden retaining wall (about 2-3’ tall) that extends out from the base of the crack and wraps around to protect the slope below first crack.
Be extra careful on the starting moves if you start under the overhang - I stumbled backwards after slipping off the second move coming up the overhang, landed on my back on the wall and most likely fractured a rib or two, leaving me out of commission for about six weeks. Jul 31, 2018