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Routes in Cracked Wall

Beans and Franks T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
First Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Montana Wildhack TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Quasar T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Scalped T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Second Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sixth Sense T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tasmanian Devil TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Third Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomahawk TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watch Me T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,354 total, 11/month
Shared By: percious on Oct 29, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

Climb middle right leaning crack on the wall.
This is my favourite climb on the cracked wall. Interesting crux sections with a crack that just fades away. The crux has no protection and puts you in ground fall, so don't head up this one unless you know you can climb it. There are two pines at the top ledge that can be used for a TR, or you can head all the way up and use some beefier trees.

Protection

Crux has no protection with ground fall potential, so watch out. Otherwise, Gear to 1", nuts and cams. I think I usually bring a ball-nut or two on this one for the thin crack near the top.

Photos

If your comfortable leading at 5.7 this is a great lead. You have amazing positive holds for the ground fall potential near the bottom. The last 15 ft before topping out can be difficult to find gear. So if your nervous drop two good pieces and go for it concentrating only on your moves. Oddly enough there is an anchor station at the top. Two bolts w chains. Please build your anchor w slings carabineers off of anchor station. Thank you Oct 27, 2017
Tom Sherman
Bristol, RI
Tom Sherman   Bristol, RI
I had no problem protecting this. I did run it out towards the top, which may be the crux. This was actually due to feeling comfortable/ awkward stances. I had two beautiful constrictions perfect (textbook) for passive pro, but both ill-aligned with my best stances. On both the placement was just out of my reach, but then after moving up aligned around mid-thigh (6'-2") and I opted to keep moving. Actually hardest part for me was gaining the crack, it was slightly awkward. Dec 14, 2015
While I don't remember what piece precisely goes in near the crux, there is pro. I am a coward, and I have lead this many times. Like many climbs in CT, you need a variety of tools and some ingenuity to protect. Dec 8, 2009