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Routes in Sulphur Canyon Area

Desert Guardian 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2 R
Type: Aid, 220 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ben Folsom & Maura Hahnenberger Oct. 28th 2007
Page Views: 85 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Oct 29, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Pitch 1- Start on the SW corner of the tower and climb the obvious chimney with chockstones in the back of it to a two bolt belay on a nice ledge. 5.8R 90 feet.
(You can also avoid the chimney by 4th class scrambling to the right of the chimney up a very loose gully system, but the chimney is good).

Pitch 2- Move the belay up to a nice, sandy, flat area in the middle of group of summits. Face west and climb a 5.9+ crack to a ledge. Look left and clip a bolt. 5.10 face climbing left and up leads to another bolt. An aid move leads to one more bolt, then C2 climbing leads to 5.8 climbing to gain a ledge below the summit pinnacle. 5.8+ R climbing leads to a two bolt belay at the summit. There is a summit register under some rocks on the top.
To Descend, rappel the route.

Location

From the turnoff to Sulphur Canyon the tower is visible to the north. From the turnoff drive 3/4 of a mile and park at a nice camping spot just west of the tower. From the parking area walk up the talus directly towards the tower.

Protection

2 sets of camming units from very small to a #4 camalot size. Stoppers come in handy as well.
Ben Folsom  
 
John,

We arrived Saturday evening after a day of climbing slabs on the San Rafael Reef. Then we climbed it on Sunday. Oct 29, 2007
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
How did I miss you? I was there Saturday... Oct 29, 2007