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Routes in Vulture Lookout

Double Jeopardy Cracks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Duracell T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energizer, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Gram Cracker T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Gyno Cracks T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magic Mushroom TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Missing Piece T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
V (aka The Vulva), The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,266 total, 10/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Oct 29, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

An unusual opportunity to exit a bomb-bay chimney via an offwidth.

Location

Where Vulture Overlook offers the tallest expanse of rock, find the alcove with the big roof. A hand crack goes up the roof to the right (Gram Cracker), and a small bomb-bay chimney marks it on the left. Stay left.

Protection

A really big cam, some medium nuts, and a couple of hand-sized cams. This is your opportunity to use that #5 or #6 camalot!

Photos

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
The story behind this climb goes like this....While the fellow mentioned by Prez. Bechler may have named the climb he certainly did not climb it. Not sure why Koala bear named it the Vulva, but it certainly fits the climb. I believe this was 1st top roped by some random DLFA hammer case, it was first led in an inspired moment by my esteemed brother of fuk-nes Dave "pigs in space" Langhoff who usually climbed in mountain boots for an extra challenge.He probably led it on hex,s also because he was a friggin traditionalist to the core. This is a great climb although bit short. Combine it with the other nearby cracks and the nearby American dream roof and it all makes sense....or not ! Peace and Fuk-nes Steve S.
Pigs probably rated it 5.10a May 11, 2013
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Given Bechler's comment above, I wonder if that wasn't just Leo taking a poke at some CMC'er? May 10, 2013
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
Doug, I found that tr info in the extremists guide. Most likely going up to climb this today after work. Wasn't sure if many other dl climbers lugged around the big boy cams to climb obscure OW around the park. May 10, 2013
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Yes, it's been led.

I'm curious why you say the "old" guide "only gives first TR info." Which old guide? The Swartling guides don't give "first" anything! May 10, 2013
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
Just curious?? Has this been led cleanly yet? I am sure it has, but the old guide only gives first TR info. May 9, 2013
EB
Winona
EB   Winona
Can't wait to get on this thing!!Looks great- can't believe I've never gotten on it. Aug 28, 2010
Tradiban
  5.10+
Tradiban  
  5.10+
Off-Width fun! A #4 C4 fit beautifully up high in the flare. Aug 27, 2010
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
I'd believe it was changed for the guidebook, so why not add to the confusion: I'll change it here. Oct 31, 2007
The real name of this route is the Vulva. Named not by the DLFA but a famous CMC'er climber. Who looks not unlike a small furry animal from down under. Oct 31, 2007