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Forearm Frenzy

5.11b, Trad, 90 ft,  Avg: 3.8 from 49 votes
FA: unknown
Connecticut > Eastern Coastal… > Chatfield Hollow Main…

Description

More overhanging then it looks!

Start on the biggest wall at the bottom of a right diagonal crack that has huge jugs and handjams, layback your way up the crack to gain the horizontal, once here traverse right 15 ft then find your way up the cruxy part to the top , a real full-value climb! Dont forget your small cams for the crux.

Location

Obvious line up the biggest wall in the middle of the cliff.

Protection

Sucks up gear, remember to extend the lower stuff.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nuria making her way through the crux.
[Hide Photo] Nuria making her way through the crux.
Joe from the Access Fund
[Hide Photo] Joe from the Access Fund
Nuria Anguita-Bates starting up this classic line.
[Hide Photo] Nuria Anguita-Bates starting up this classic line.
Forearm Frenzy, Frenzy Direct - Chatfield Hollow
[Hide Photo] Forearm Frenzy, Frenzy Direct - Chatfield Hollow
Forearm Frenzy, Chatfield Hollow
[Hide Photo] Forearm Frenzy, Chatfield Hollow
Z Wall - Forearm Frenzy, Chatfield Hollow
[Hide Photo] Z Wall - Forearm Frenzy, Chatfield Hollow
Jay Peterson on the initial crack
[Hide Photo] Jay Peterson on the initial crack
Nuria making it look easy.
[Hide Photo] Nuria making it look easy.
Sam Todzia clipping the crux gear.
[Hide Photo] Sam Todzia clipping the crux gear.
Sam Todzia taking a look at what he is getting himself into.
[Hide Photo] Sam Todzia taking a look at what he is getting himself into.
Ladd finishing up the hand-traverse.
[Hide Photo] Ladd finishing up the hand-traverse.
Ladd making the 1st moves up the diagonal crack.
[Hide Photo] Ladd making the 1st moves up the diagonal crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Toby
Logan, UT
[Hide Comment] A fun TR variation to this one is straight up the face. The line in the shadow of the tree in this photo, mountainproject.com/images/… A short traverse left to get the block hold was the crux. This start gives the route a more sustained feeling, meeting up in the big horizontal part, before the second crux. Jun 1, 2009
[Hide Comment] Is this not the same climb as Z-crack? Feb 25, 2010
John Biehn
Madison, CT
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] I've heard this one get called Z Crack, Zig Zag, and Forearm Frenzy... Once you leave the large horizontal you get into the business and its usually much dirtier.

I've found lots of snake skins in the large horizontal... adds some excitement. Jun 15, 2011
m Mobes
MDI, ME
 
[Hide Comment] I nominate this route as the best trad line in CT. It would be a classic anywhere in the world. Aug 19, 2011
[Hide Comment] this route is so good. I cant believe how many climbers in this state have NOT lead this. It should be numero uno on every CT climber's tick list. LEAD IT! Dec 11, 2013
Brian M
Long Beach, CA
 
[Hide Comment] one of the biners on the anchor is worn quite a bit, not sharp yet but just heads up Oct 14, 2015