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Routes in East Wall Outer (Creature Feature Area)

Creature Feature S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Doomed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Doomsday S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Exalted Easterners T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flakes of Doom T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hell Week TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hellbender T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Hellcat TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hellgramite T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Hellhound T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Hellion of Troy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hellraiser S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wayward Westerners TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Warren Hughes & Mike Van Volkem, October 1991
Page Views: 956 total, 8/month
Shared By: john durr on Oct 28, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Located at Hall of Horrors East Wall - Den of Doom, left (west) of Rocky Horror Picture Show and Creature Feature on a short southeast facing brown buttress and face. Face climb up and left on this steep face with nice holds.

Location

Right side of the obvious patina face 200' left of Creature Feature.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Photos

caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Those look like the 5/16ths ones (i.e., bigger). I found those very difficult to pull, and have heard similar from others. I've only removed 4 total though, and I had a tuning fork. I remember thinking a 2nd tuning fork would have saved me a lot of time and effort. Jan 27, 2015
Greg Opland    
They're pretty beefy buttonheads, but as a bolt type, buttonheads should be some of the easier ones to get back out... maybe. :-)

Jan 27, 2015
David Lyons
Forest Falls, CA
David Lyons   Forest Falls, CA
yeah, you could clip both new and old bolts, equalize at each stance!

I've never taken out a buttonhead before - ez, or not? Jan 26, 2015
Greg Opland    
You have to love the new bolt replacement paradigm exhibited on this route...don't do any real work to do a careful, low-impact job, just slam new bolts in next to the old ones and leave a big mess behind. Disgusting. Jan 9, 2015
Megin Olson
SoCal
Megin Olson   SoCal
There are 2 bolts w/ rap rings on top. I tightened both bolts before rapelling since they were loose. I couldn't tighten one of the bolts enough due to the orientation of surrounding rock and hanger. One fixe and one petzl hanger. The route itself has newer bolts right next to older bolts and rusty hangers. Jan 8, 2015
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
There was a bolted anchor on top of this two years ago. Mar 1, 2012
Randy  
Never have been bolt anchors on this route. Big gear is helpful to set up an anchor. Mar 1, 2012
TofuTodd Eddie
Salt Lake
TofuTodd Eddie   Salt Lake
The new miramontes book indicates this route has a bolt anchor and is 5.9. I scoped this route on 2/26/12 and there was new bolts but no anchor. The old bolts were not pulled and someone bailed on a quick link at the last bolt so it looks as if there is an anchor without chains or rings. FYI. Feb 28, 2012
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
Mostly fun climbing on plates with the crux at the second bolt as you negotiate thin face moves getting stood up onto better holds. One star out of five.

The bolts on this have been replaced and are 3/8". Feb 22, 2010