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Routes in (g) Slander Sector

Aftershock S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
All Washed Up S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Babyface S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Defamation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drama S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fueled by Slander S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mudslinger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shockwave S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slander Magnet S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sweetie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uncle Ho S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2007
Page Views: 393 total, 3/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Oct 28, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

A steep start followed by some awkward mantles and balancy moves near the top give a varied route.

Start up the large broken crack until possible to move right and gain the sharp flake. Hang around, admire the rock engineering, then make a long reach up to the ledge.

Once on the large ledge it is possible to move left to clip the fourth bolt. After clipping the bolt you can continue to layback the flake on the left, or alternatively you can move back right and mantle awkwardly onto the next ledge.

After the 5th bolt continue up the steep wall passing a few interesting sections until the final ledge is reached.

Location

Right side of the area, 5 feet right of Shockwave.

Protection

9 bolts, double ring anchors.

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.10d
C Miller   CA  
  5.10d
A worthwhile addition to the area with steeper climbing than initial appearances suggest. The somewhat height-dependent crux is passing the 2nd bolt as you lock-off and reach for a hidden hold, but a balancy section just below the top will keep you on your toes as you near the anchors. Oct 29, 2007