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The Chicken Ranch

5.6, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 1.7 from 21 votes
FA: unknown
California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North > N Wonderland Ap… > Mustang Ranch
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This trough, with three converging cracks is near the center of the cliff. The two on the left go all the way to a notch on top. Climb using the two cracks on the left. There is a hole in the rock at the notch on top, that can be slung for an anchor.

  • The Chicken Ranch is a licensed brothel located in Pahrump, Nevada, about 60 miles west of Las Vegas.

Protection

Pro to 2.5". A protrusion of rock with a hole can be slung for the top anchor. Bring some long slings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

testing out the opening moves
[Hide Photo] testing out the opening moves
Nearing the top of the lead of Chicken Ranch.
[Hide Photo] Nearing the top of the lead of Chicken Ranch.
"The Chicken Ranch" goes up cracks and chimney in photo center.<br> Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "The Chicken Ranch" goes up cracks and chimney in photo center. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris D
the couch
 
[Hide Comment] Surprisingly steep start for 5.6, this route is worth doing if only for the "ah ha!" of finding a few key holds that make it 5.6 instead of 7 or 8. Grainy rock that gets more crumbly as you go up. Oct 23, 2011
Rob Selter
running springs Ca
 
[Hide Comment] fun little route. the business is on the first two moves. Feb 29, 2012
Dustin Meyer
Lake Forest, CA
  5.6
[Hide Comment] I enjoyed leading this route. Fun for the grade and not too heady, but still enough spice to make things interesting. I found the “crux” to be about in the middle.

I missed the anchor beta about using a sling though a hole in the rock at the top, which would have been helpful. I barely managed to get two #2 friends in at the base of a rock towards the back of the ledge, and a #1 in a shallow pocket in the right side. They were rather far apart so I needed to equalize between two long slings in series.

To get down, we scrambled up to the left, walked down a ways on a gentle slope, up an easy slab, and then down on some smaller rocks to the right, taking us to the far side of Mustang Ranch. It didn’t take long but we still found ourselves wishing we’d brought our approach shoes to change into. Feb 20, 2023