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Beer Crack
5.11 V3,
Trad, Boulder, 20 ft (6 m),
Avg: 4 from 44
votes
FA: Davin Bagdonas
Wyoming
> Laramie Area
> Vedauwoo
> Vedauwoo Boulde…
> 700S Boulders
Access Issue: Temporary Notice on aerial herbicide treatment & Bad Bolt Submission Form
Details
PSA for those thinking about a trip. The gates are still closed and the sign says enter at your own risk. "Aerial application by helicopter of the herbicide Rejuvra will target over 5,700 acres on a landscape that has been the focus of multiple years’ worth of treatment."
This is a new Vedauwoo classic. It is a sixty degree overhanging splitter hand crack roof that leads to a gaping flared offwidth exit, which isn't too bad due to a big face hold to the left of the crack. Start sitting down on the first good hands at the bottom of the roof. There are many ways to do the end, so after you figure it out you can just keep playing around. This thing is really good.
This thing has now been dug out (in an unfortunately unsightly way, it looks like someone just took the incessant digging from dogs which I have many times seen chase annimals under there and dig for them, as inspiration to help the dogs dig a big dog hole) which extends the start a good two body lengths of big hand and fist crack climbing. This bumps the difficulty up a bit. I think V5 (12-) was an honest grade before, and I think the extension adds a grade. Again, this is a really good problem.
Location
Park as for the other problems and hike toward the obvious rocks. When you get to them head left a couple hundred yards and look to your right for the obvious roof.
[Hide Comment] One should say that a pad and spotter can be nice for the lip, depending on your beta. There's a way to do it that makes it completely safe, but it is body size dependent. Awesome, awesome line.
Also, from the parking area, there is a faint trail that deposits you about 50 feet right of this thing on the ridge line. It's right next to the creek.
Oct 26, 2007
[Hide Comment] Outstanding boulder problem! Very fun. I was going to look around for some other stuff while I was there, but I ended up doing this thing like 12 times in a row. I just enjoyed it that much!
Apr 22, 2012
[Hide Comment] I tried this problem last weekend and got stopped in my tracks at the offwidth section. After grabbing the good face hold with a good right hand jam and my feet above your head in the crack, what do you do? Is there and offwidth guru out there with the beta!?
Sep 4, 2012
[Hide Comment] The beta I was shown (but never actually succeeded with) involved getting a right-arm chicken wing and struggling up until you can get your foot on that big hold.
Sep 5, 2012
[Hide Comment] The super-secret-ninja beta is to invert while still in the handcrack; kicking heel-toe cammies into the widepart; then you let go, no-handsies, whipping around to the jug; then you can switch the cammies to knee-jammies and wiggle up. That's it . . . DUH!!!!
Apr 7, 2013
[Hide Comment] Thanks, natedawg and poundit14, for the 411 on the problem. Some things are best left unsaid. Sometimes it's nice to just work it out for yourself.
Jul 15, 2015
Access Issue: Temporary Notice on aerial herbicide treatment & Bad Bolt Submission Form
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Snohomish, WA
Also, from the parking area, there is a faint trail that deposits you about 50 feet right of this thing on the ridge line. It's right next to the creek. Oct 26, 2007
Wyoming
Boulder, CO
Snohomish, WA
Bozeman, MT
Small Town, USA
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