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Ergo
5.10c,
Sport, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 2.9 from 57
votes
FA: Rick Bradshaw and Josh Smith
New Mexico
> Santa Fe Area
> Diablo Canyon
> Early Wall
> Runway (Lower Tier)
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's (
blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) (
bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG (
nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are:
The Shack,
Winter Wall,
Solar Cave,
Lake Street and
Styx.
Description
Fun moves up the buttress. Tricky thin moves between big holds down low and a 2nd crux at the bulge section midway up. More easier steep climbing on big hold above this, then the angle lessens for the last 2 bolts to the big ledge.
This climb is used to access
You're Scaring the Horses.
Location
This climb is the left of 2 routes on the next prominent pillar left of
Drunk Rednecks midway across the Runway. It starts on a small platform.
Protection
10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
![Michael works his way up this fun climb]()
[Hide Photo] Michael works his way up this fun climb
![Bouldery start leads to fun climbing above. Starts up a ramp.]()
[Hide Photo] Bouldery start leads to fun climbing above. Starts up a ramp.
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Santa Fe, NM
Los Alamos, NM